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Project 9 Trash Can Troll
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Figure 3-29 An inexpensive 30-second sound recorder
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Project 9 Trash Can Troll
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Figure 3-30 Installing the wires onto the circuit board
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trigger the playback button I think this switch is from the door of a washing machine, or was it a microwave oven, maybe a photocopier The microswitch should be easy to trigger with very little force so you can simply tape it in place wherever you want to trigger the sound I call this unit the trash can troll because I placed it behind the garbage can so it would grumble and growl like a hungry beast each time the trash can lid was opened, but you can place it anywhere The microswitch will probably have three connections labeled NO, NC and COM, which would indicate normally open, normally closed and common To make a pushbutton switch, you will want to connect the normally open and common connections to your sound playback device The guts can be mounted in any suitable container with venting for the speaker As shown in Figure 3-31, I used an extremely high-quality plastic cabinet made from an empty container A little hot glue holds all the parts in place, then the container is included with the rest of the trash, but the microswitch is run along the outside of the garbage can and glued behind the lid so that opening the lid causes the switch to close and the troll to speak (Figure 3-32): Feed me, Don t forget to recycle, Thanks (burp), What s up let your imagination run wild and customize the
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trash troll s comments accordingly You ll enjoy seeing the astonished look on your unsuspecting victim every time If the installation is temporary, use a piece of electrical tape to hold the microswitch in place, since it does not take much force to activate it There are many uses for an easy-to-setup sound playback device, and it could easily be mixed with any of the projects in the book to add an extra degree of realism to a prank How about recording a shrill screech and adding sound to
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Figure 3-31 Blending in with the rest of the trash
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Figure 3-32 Trash can-mounted microswitch
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Project 9 Trash Can Troll
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Project 8 so that when the critter springs up in the air it has a spine tingling battle cry as well You could probably directly replace the microswitch with the CDS cell to make a light-activated playback device, just like the ones that taunt a person as when he or she opens a fridge door If you really want to scare the bejeezes out of your friends, connect the output into a loud amplifier and have it light triggered so that barrage of angry dogs start barking and howling as soon as they enter their house and switch on the lights Maybe you could put the device inside a fake
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critter with a motion switch so that any movement creates an angry growl Yes, you will know what to do with all these wonderful devices, and I m sure it won t be hard to find that special person who deserves a little Evil Genius payback!
Let s leave the critters and beasties to rest for a bit and move on to some mechanical devices that will truly annoy and confuse your unsuspecting victims
4
Mechanical Mayhem
Project 10 Remote Control Jammer
Infrared remote controls make our life so much better, don t you think When I was younger, I d have to get up and walk across the bright green carpet, past the 8-track player and crank the huge knob to change the channel on the television Yes, life has improved so much since those dark days, but all of that is about to change, at least for the unfortunate victim of the remote control jammer presented here Now, before we dig right into the schematic, let me explain a little bit about how remote-controlled appliances work so we can understand how to exploit their weaknesses for our own evil needs Most remote-controlled devices use an invisible infrared link, and they can easily be identified by the one or more infrared LEDs that stick out of the end of the remote control casing as shown in Figure 4-1 Figure 4-1 also shows a handful of 940-nanometer wavelength infrared LEDs from my parts bin that are the same type used in most remote control units When you press a button on the remote control, a microprocessor generates a series of binary pulses, which the infrared receiver inside the target appliance attempts to decode into one of several functions The frequency of these ones and zeros is sent at a rate of between 38 and 40 kHz from the remote control to the receiver, depending on the make and model of the unit I won t get into the protocol of the binary signal because that is not important here, just the fact that the base frequency is between 38 and 40 kHz To confuse the remote control receiver, we will be sending a non-stop stream of zeros and ones at the same frequency that the remote control would normally send, but our stream will not contain any information, so the receiver will just sit there and do nothing Because the receiver is listening to our blank pulse train, the real remote control cannot get a signal through, so this essentially blocks the remote control from working, allowing you to hijack whichever channel you like, or simply stop anyone else from using the target appliance The schematic for the remote control jammer is shown in Figure 4-2 The 555 timer is set up as an adjustable oscillator with a variable frequency between 30 and 50 kHz, so you can fine tune it for the most effective jamming possible The oscillator output is fed into the base of transistor Q1, which is used to switch on and off the two or more infrared LEDs The reason the oscillator frequency is adjustable is because not all manufacturers use the same base frequency for their remote control protocol why would they In my opinion, standardization would make the world less confusing, and who would want such a thing Anyhow, the frequency must be set exactly on your jammer, or the original remote control signal may still squeak through, since the microcontroller inside the receiver module is very good at weeding out noise and erroneous data While you are building the circuit on your breadboard, it is a good idea to test the
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