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dpi, then make two transparencies and lay them on top of each other Make sure that the traces line up perfectly, and then staple them together A glass weight should then be used to cover the artwork, ensuring that no light will pass under the traces (approximately 3-mm glass thickness or greater works best) Use a 10-minute exposure time at a distance of 5 inches 3 Developing your board The development process removes any photoresist that was exposed through the film positive to ultraviolet light Warning: The developer contains sodium hydroxide and is highly corrosive Wear rubber gloves and eye protection while using it Avoid contact with eyes and skin Flush thoroughly with water for 15 minutes if it is splashed in eyes or on the skin Directions: Using rubber gloves and eye protection, dilute one part MG cat #418 developer with 10 parts tepid water (weaker is better than stronger) In a plastic tray, immerse the board, copper side up, into the developer, and you will quickly see an image appear while you are lightly brushing the resist with a foam brush This should be completed within one to two minutes Immediately neutralize the development action by rinsing the board with water The exposed resist must be removed from the board as soon as possible When you are done with the developing stage, the only resist remaining will be covering what you want your circuit to be The rest should be completely removed 4 Etching your board For best results, use the 416-E Professional Etching Process Kit or 416-ES Economy Etching Kit The most popular etching matter is ferric chloride, MG cat #415, an aqueous solution that dissolves most metals Warning: This solution is normally heated up during use, generating unpleasant and caustic vapors; adequate venti20
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lation is very important Use only glass or plastic containers Keep out of reach of children May cause burns or stain Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or clothing Store in plastic container Wear eye protection and rubber gloves If you use cold ferric chloride, it will take a long time to etch the board To speed up the etching process, heat up the solution A simple way of doing this is to immerse the ferric chloride bottle or jug in hot water, adding or changing the water to keep it heating A thermostat-controlled crock pot is also an effective way to heat ferric chloride, as are thermostatically controlled submersible heaters (glass enclosed, such as an aquarium heater) An ideal etching temperature is 50 C (120 F) Be careful not to overheat the ferric chloride The absolute maximum working temperature is about 57 C (135 F) The warmer your etch solution, the faster your boards will etch Ferric chloride solution can be used over and over again, until it becomes saturated with copper As the solution becomes more saturated, the etching time will increase Agitation assists in removing unwanted copper faster This can be accomplished by using air bubbles from two aquarium air wands with an aquarium air pump Do not use an aquarium air stone The etching process can be assisted by brushing the unwanted resist with a foam brush while the board is submerged in the ferric chloride After the etching process is completed, wash the board thoroughly under running water Do not remove the remaining resist protecting your circuit or image, as it protects the copper from oxidation If you require it to be removed, use a solvent cleaner Figure 23 shows an etched board ready for drilling 5 Drilling and parts placement Use a 1/32-inch drill bit to drill all the component holes on the PCB Drill the holes for larger components with a 3/64-inch bit where indicated Drill any holes that will be used to mount the circuit board at this
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