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Prepare the Chassis
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The next step is to clean the chassis and make a few measurements The first chassis cleaning step is to give its engine compartment a good steam cleaning Well-used chassis might require extra scrubbing to remove accumulated dirt and grime This has a twofold purpose: it minimizes the grease and gunk you have to deal with in parts removal, and you can see what you need to look at and measure You might even want to repaint the engine compartment area at this time The measuring step involves determining the position of the transmission/ drivetrain or transaxle in your internal combustion engine vehicle and reproducing this position as closely as possible in your EV Your internal combustion engine chassis will have one of three possible engine-drivetrain arrangements: Lateral-mount front engine, transmission, and driveshaft Transverse-mount front engine with transaxle Rear engine with transaxle (VW-style) Pickup truck conversion chassis will nearly always deal with one of the first two variations Two measurements are important: vertical height from transmission housing to floor (measured on a level surface); and a vertical and horizontal reference point on transmission housing to body or frame Vertical clearance from the floor is important in any conversion where your motor mounts also support your transmission You want to reproduce this as closely as possible so your tranny is not running uphill or downhill from the way it started A firewall or frame horizontal and vertical alignment mark is also important It helps in obtaining proper mechanical alignment of the mating parts later on Scribe this mark accurately with an awl or nail and highlight it with a dab of spray paint or touchup paint so you can later find it
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Removing Chassis Parts
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The next step is to drain the chassis liquids, remove all engine-compartment parts that impede engine removal, remove the engine, and then remove all other internal combustion engine-related parts The parts removal process starts with draining all fluids first: oil, transmission fluid, radiator coolant, and gasoline Remember to dispose of your fluids in an environmentally sound manner or recycle them Draining gasoline from your tank is particularly dangerous and tricky put out your cigarette before you attempt it Drain as much as you can before you physically remove the tank Discharging an air-conditioning system, if your conversion vehicle has one, is a job best left to a professional Next, disconnect the battery and remove all wires connected to the engine Carefully disconnect the throttle linkage you will need it later and set it aside out of harm s way Then remove everything that might interfere with the engine lift-out process The hood is a good item to start with, followed by radiator, fan shroud, fan, coolant and heater hoses, and all fuel lines Disconnect the manifolds and remove the exhaust system at this time, too If your work area isn t equipped for heavy lifting (the smallest 4-cylinder engine with accessories attached can weigh around 300 lbs), you might be best served by letting a professional handle the heavy work Engine overhaul shops are usually glad to do the job and you might be able to cut a deal with them for the engine and parts that
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results in a net gain on the transaction Plus there are a number of other aspects draining fluids, storing parts, not breaking cables and wires and the physical act of actually removing the engine without damage to you, your chassis, or the engine To use an analogy, it s like changing your own motor oil at home versus at the Valvoline It takes you several hours and you have to clean up a mess (yourself and your spot) The Valvoline people, who do it for a living, take 10 minutes and neither they nor you get dirty If you do the job yourself (schedule an inside helper for this step), pick a sturdy joist to attach your lifting winch to not a two-by-four or rent an engine-lifting dolly Cover the vehicle s fenders and sides with moving pads to protect them during liftout Attach the chain or cable to the engine at two different points Remove the bolts from the engine mounting brackets and those attaching the engine to the transmission bell housing The disconnected engine slides straight back away from the transmission, then up and out (in theory) In practice, since you have to both pull down on the winch cable and pull back on the engine block, another set of hands helps greatly The objective of the whole process is to remove the 300 lbs of engine without banging, bending, or damaging anything inside the bell housing (transmission spline shaft, etc) or on the now exposed business-end of the engine (clutch-flywheel assembly, etc) Carefully set the removed engine down in an out-of-the-way yet protected part of your work area Finally, remove everything else associated with the internal combustion engine: gas tank, gas lines, muffler, exhaust pipes, ignition, cooling and heating systems
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