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Build Your Own Combat Robot
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Live Wires with the motors, chains, wheels, batteries, and motor controllers hooked up prior to its first live testing for TLC
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off like a bat out of Hades I put the brakes on, and Live Wires skidded to a stop Reverse worked just fine; then I raced it around the lot, and the robot even turned on a dime It put on a great show for the cameras for the TLC crew It took out the 55-gallon drum, gave Dave Owens a nice ride, and nimbly ran around the traffic cones that were laid out in a slalom coarse Our creation couldn t have worked any better
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Step 7: Building the Frame
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After the great show Live Wires put on, we started building the frame of the robot We used 4-inch-tall aluminum C-channels for all of the sides of the robot Figure 14-12 shows the frame structure prior to being bolted onto the robot You will notice that we had to cut a few notches in the bottom of the channels to account for the pillow blocks After the frame was built, we made a set of aluminum boxes to hold the batteries in place The last thing you want are for the batteries to rattle around inside your robot After the TLC guys left, we noticed that we had the same motor shaft adapter failure we had the night before Luckily, it had held together long enough for the video taping I still wanted a bolt-on type of solution with the threaded motor shaft, so I spent a lot of time looking at different approaches The proper way would be to pin the adapter onto the shaft, but I didn t want to go that route I decided to use the same type of mounting method the Jacobs chuck uses to attach to the motor shaft Figure 14-13 shows this new adapter One side is for using a removable pin
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The 4-inch-tall aluminum channels used for the frame of Live Wires
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to attach to the sprocket shaft The other side has a -13 right-hand thread to match the drill shaft Down the center of the drill shaft is a 6-mm left-hand thread (I have no idea as to why Bosch uses English and metric threads on the same part) The left-hand thread prevents the adapter from unscrewing itself Since the screw that came with the Bosch drill is an odd-shaped screw, I used the Bosch screws instead of trying to find my own
FIGURE 14-13
Cross-sectional layout of the new motor/sprocket shaft adapter
Build Your Own Combat Robot
Step 8: Adding a Weapon
Once the core structure was built and the new motor shaft adapters were fabricated, we had only two days left until we had to ship the robot to the TLC studios, and we still didn t have a weapon We decided to go with a reconfigurable front-end attachment approach with the robot We went with two types of front ends The first is an articulated scoop/wedge and a reinforced pointed ram The ram front end was made out of 1/8-inch steel angle irons They were welded to form a T-cross section with the pointed end facing outwards and a V shape to pierce through opponents The ram front end was designed for the maze event The geometry was designed to protect the front tires and allow clearance for going over ramps and speed bumps The scoop/wedge was made out of 0090-inch steel, and it was hinged to the robot body with 1/4-inch-thick steel flanges The wedge front end articulated up and down by gravity The geometry was designed so that there would be at least a 1/4-inch clearance from the bottom of the scoop and the ground If Live Wires gets flipped on its back, the wedge will rotate to the new position, so the robot will look identical whether it is upside down or right side up Figure 14-14 shows a photograph of the robot with the front scoop, side walls, and the aluminum battery boxes next to the motors In this photo, the back side is removed so that we could drill a hole to allow a finger to get inside the robot to flip a manual power disconnect switch Figure 14-15 shows a photograph of the inside of the final robot Note the symmetry of all of the components inside the robot At the rear of the robot, you will notice the manual disconnect switches The Victor 883s were mounted to the sides
FIGURE 14-14
Live Wires showing its aluminum C-channel sidewalls, aluminum battery box next to the batteries, and the steel front scoop (photo by Kristina Lobb Miles)
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