COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE in Visual Studio .NET

Printing QR-Code in Visual Studio .NET COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE

COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
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Sunscreen Combinations
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Many sunscreen formulations contain combinations of active sunscreen ingredients to enhance protection and alter the aesthetics of the product The FDA regulates which sunscreens can be combined with others; this is because of the recognition that certain sunscreen ingredients are incompatible and can actually lower the SPF rating of a product when combined26 Combinations are employed to achieve a higher SPF using a lower concentration of sunscreen ingredients
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Menthyl Anthranilate
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The absorption peak for this compound is at 340 nm Consequently, it is a weak UVB filter, but offers effective UVA2 protection Menthyl anthranilate is less widely used than benzophenone because it is less effective
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Parsol 1789 (avobenzone or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) has an absorption maximum at 355 nm and provides superior UVA protection This ingredient was approved by the FDA in the late 1990s Parsol 1789 has also been frequently reported to cause photoallergic dermatitis41 Avobenzone is one of the most commonly used UVA-blocking ingredients The initial formulations had significant issues with stability However, since 2007 several stabilized forms of avobenzone have become commercially available, including Helioplex by Neutrogena and Active Photobarrier Complex by Aveeno Sunscreens made before 2007 should be discarded
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Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
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In contrast to other UV filters that are soluble in the oil phase, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PSA) is water soluble As a result, this ingredient imparts a less oily feel to sunscreen formulations Unfortunately, PSA, like salicylates, is a selective UVB filter and allows almost full UVA transmission This compound may be more suitable in combination with other filters
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ROLE OF ANTIOXIDANTS IN SUNSCREENS
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Just as the body has its own immune defense system, the skin has its own antioxidant defense system This system protects the skin from UV-induced oxidative damage Excess UV radiation can prevent free radicals in the skin from being absorbed by this natural defense mechanism, thus leading to cancer, wrinkling, and aging This excess of UV exposure calls for the induction and use of antioxidant enzymes24 Such enzymes act as UV filters and capture the free radicals before they cause damage Retinyl esters, a storage form of vitamin A, have been found to absorb UV radiation with a maximum at 325 nm 45 Along with enzymatic antioxidants, nonenzymatic forms exist as well GSH, alpha-tocopherol, and beta-carotene are among a few of the nonenzymatic antioxidants administered Some examples of
UVA-ABSORBING SUNSCREEN FORMULATIONS
Benzophenones
The absorption range for benzophenones is predominantly in the UVA portion of the light spectrum between 320 and 350 nm Oxybenzone, which is fre-
Mexoryl
The FDA finally approved a new UVA filter after years of negotiations This sunscreen agent is known as Mexoryl
enzymatic forms include catalase, superoxide dismutase, and GSH peroxidase24 Antioxidants can be administered in oral or topical forms (see 34) Oral forms tend to be more beneficial because they do not wear away from skin by daily rubbing and washing In addition, topical antioxidants may not have the capacity to be properly absorbed into the skin Consequently, topical antioxidants do not protect well against UV radiation alone and have a low SPF Thus, antioxidants should be used in conjunction with a sunscreen to increase their efficiency One antioxidant of note is Polypodium leucotomos, a botanically-derived compound that belongs to the genus of ferns It has been used in the treatment of various inflammatory disorders as well as vitiligo In a study by Gonz lez et al, the in vivo properties of polypodium were identified In the study, 21 volunteers were divided into two groups One group was treated with orally ingested psoralens (8-MOP or 5-MOP) and the other group was not treated These volunteers were then exposed to solar radiation The following clinical parameters were evaluated: immediate pigment darkening (IPD), minimal erythema dose (MED), minimal melanogenic dose (MMD), and minimal phototoxic dose (MPD) before and after topical or oral administration of polypodium leucotomos46 The results showed that polypodium was photoprotective after topical application as well as oral administration
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