COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE in Visual Studio .NET

Drawing QR Code in Visual Studio .NET COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE

COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
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CHAPTER 32 Moisturizing Agents
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epidermis to absorb important components for the circulation, such as glycerol and water through aquaporin channels, will also aid in increasing skin hydration many find the greasy, oily texture cosmetically inelegant Therefore, petrolatum is often combined with other ingredients to minimize the greasy feeling
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Moisturization research was spearheaded in the 1950s when Blank demonstrated that low moisture content of the skin is a prime factor in dry skin conditions1 In the last 50 years, many scientists have devoted their lives to researching moisturization and have begun to unravel the mysteries of skin hydration (see 11) It is now known that the symptoms of dry skin can be treated by increasing the hydration state of the stratum corneum (SC) with occlusive or humectant ingredients and by smoothing the rough surface with an emollient Moisturizers represent a multibillion dollar market in the US Commonly used moisturizers are oil-in-water emulsions, such as creams and lotions, and water-in-oil emulsions such as hand creams There are two main types of ingredients: occlusives and humectants A good moisturizer usually contains both components This chapter will identify and discuss the mechanisms of action of the main components found in popular moisturizers
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Occlusives coat the SC to retard transepidermal water loss (TEWL) They are usually oily substances that have the ability to dissolve fats and are therefore widely used as a component in skin care cosmetics An occlusive is one of the best choices to treat dry skin because it provides an emollient effect as well as decreases TEWL Two of the best occlusive ingredients currently available are petrolatum and mineral oil Petrolatum, for example, exhibits a water vapor loss resistance 170 times that of olive oil2 However, petrolatum has a greasy feeling that may render agents containing it cosmetically unacceptable Other commonly used occlusive ingredients include paraffin, squalene, dimethicone, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, propylene glycol, lanolin, and beeswax3 In addition, natural oils such as sunflower oil have been increasing in popularity Occlusive agents are only effective while present on the skin; once removed, TEWL returns to the previous level Interestingly, it is not desirable to lower TEWL by more than 40% because maceration with increased levels of bacteria can result4 In moisturizers, occlusives are usually combined with humectant ingredients
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MECHANISM OF ACTION OF MOISTURIZERS
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There are many moisturizers on the market but they all have the same goal: to increase water content in the SC This can be accomplished by preventing water evaporation from the skin by using occlusive ingredients or by increasing the integrity of the skin barrier (see 11) The mainstay of increasing the integrity of the skin s barrier involves providing fatty acids (such as linoleic acid, Fig 32-1), ceramides, cholesterol, and controlling the calcium gradient Increasing the skin s ability to hold onto water is another strategy for moisturizing skin Increasing levels of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), glycerin (glycerol), and other humectants such as hyaluronic acid will help skin hold onto water Lastly, increasing the ability of the
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Lanolin is a complex natural product that cannot be synthesized The method of refinement used determines the composition and quality of the resulting product, so not all lanolin products display the same properties11 Lanolin is derived from the sebaceous secretions of sheep; however, its composition is very different than human sebum12 Lanolin shares two important characteristics with SC lipids: (1) lanolin contains cholesterol, an essential component of SC lipids, and (2) lanolin and SC lipids can coexist as solids and liquids at physiologic temperatures Unfortunately, there is a subset of individuals who develop contact sensitization to lanolin; therefore, it has developed a reputation as a sensitizer that, according to some, may be undeserved13 Many moisturizing products are now labeled as lanolin free The concern over allergic reactions to lanolin has led to the development of ultra-pure medical grade lanolin products such as MedilanTM Medilan and Medilan Ultra have been shown to be effective in the treatment of xerotic skin and superficial wound healing14 16
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