android barcode scanner api java MOISTURIZING AGENTS in Visual Studio .NET

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CHAPTER 32 MOISTURIZING AGENTS
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Oils
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With the surge in popularity of natural and organic ingredients, essential oils are now commonly used in moisturizing products or as moisturizing agents themselves In addition, moisturizing cleansing oils are also commercially available Oil is a substance that is liquid at room temperature and insoluble in water It is both hydrophobic and lipophilic In fact, oils contain copious lipids, which the skin requires for the proper formation and function of cell membranes to prevent TEWL Vegetable oils are pressed out of seeds and essential oils are steamed from several plant parts, including stems, leaves, and roots Not all oils are of botanical origin Mineral oil, or liquid petrolatum, is derived from the distillation of petroleum in the production of gasoline
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Petrolatum
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Petrolatum is considered by many, including Kligman,5 to be one of the best moisturizers It has been used as a skin care product since 1872 Petrolatum is a purified mixture of hydrocarbons that is derived from petroleum (crude oil) The hydrocarbon molecules present in petrolatum prevent oxidation, giving petrolatum a long shelf life Because petrolatum is one of the most occlusive moisturizing ingredients known, it is often the gold standard to which other occlusive ingredients are compared6 Petrolatum is also well known for being noncomedogenic7 Although extremely rare, allergic contact dermatitis to petrolatum has been reported in the literature8,9 The possibility of an individual being allergic to petrolatum is so infrequent that some authors believe it to be a nonsensitizing agent10 However, when used alone,
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Mineral Oil
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With a history of cosmetic uses spanning two millennia and inclusion in
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FIGURE 32-1 Linoleic acid
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modern cosmetic agents for more than 100 years, mineral oil is one of the most frequently used oils in skin care products17 Nearly 20 years ago, investigators found that an emulsion containing mineral oil was more effective than several linoleic acid emulsions in diminishing skin vapor loss induced in volunteers by the topical application of the surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate18 In 2004, a randomized, double-blind, and controlled trial showed that mineral oil and extra virgin coconut oil were equally efficacious and safe as moisturizers in treating mild-to-moderate xerosis in 34 patients, with surface lipid level and skin hydration significantly enhanced in both groups19 Because of its source, though, several criticisms, and some myths, have emerged regarding mineral oil In fact, more than 10 years ago, an epidemiologic review of the relationship between mineral oil exposure and cancer revealed several associations20 Importantly, however, any such evidence linking mineral oil exposure (via dermal contact or inhalation) and specific forms of cancer has been derived from cases of protracted exposure to industrial grade mineral oil Cosmetic grade mineral oil has never been associated with cancer etiology Furthermore, a recent study suggested that even though industrial grade mineral oil may be comedogenic, cosmetic grade mineral oil patently is not, and, consequently, should not be excluded from appropriate cosmetic formulations because of lingering myths or extrapolations from industrial grade mineral oil regarding comedogenicity17
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TABLE 32-1 Oils and Foods That Contain Linoleic Acid OILS Coconut Grape seed Hemp Macadamia Olive Palm Peanut Pistachio Poppy seed Rice bran Saf ower Sesame Sun ower Walnut Wheat germ FOODS Egg yolks Grass-fed cow milk Lard Okra Soybean Spirulina
EVENING PRIMROSE OIL (OENOTHERA BIENNIS) Evening primrose oil (EPO) is rich in omega-6 fatty acids, containing both linoleic and -linolenic acids Indeed, EPO is thought to be the best known source of GLA Linoleic acid, which helps to maintain SC cohesion and contributes to TEWL reduction, is also used by the body to synthesize GLA23 EPO is usually taken as an oral supplement but is also included in topical skin care products Some studies of EPO have revealed significant effects in the treatment of atopic dermatitis; however, studies have been largely inconsistent regarding such an application24 Nevertheless, the presence of linoleic and -linolenic acids may justify the use of EPO in patients with dry skin or poor nutrition OLIVE OIL (OLEA EUROPAEA) Used by the ancient Greeks, Egyptians, and Romans for bathing as well as medicinal purposes, olive oil contains various potent compounds, many with antioxidant properties, such as polyphenols, squalene, fatty acids (particularly oleic acid), triglycerides, tocopherols, carotenoids, sterols, and chlorophylls25 In particular, the phenols in virgin olive oil are known to scavenge reactive oxygen 25 and nitrogen species active in human disease; however, it is unknown whether the influence of these compounds extends beyond the extracellular environment26 Adverse side effects associated with olive oil are very rare, as this natural oil is generally regarded as safe and very weakly irritant27 JOJOBA (BUXUS CHINENSIS OR SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) Jojoba (pronounced ho-hoba) oil is derived from the cold-pressed peanut- or small olive-sized seeds of the jojoba plant and contains several fatty acids including oleic, linoleic, linolenic, and arachidonic acids25 Triglycerides are also among the key components of jojoba oil Significantly, jojoba oil is similar in consistency with human sebum, which is, in turn, readily compatible with the constituent fatty acids and triglycerides contained in this natural polyunsaturated liquid wax Consequently considered to be a natural moisturizer, jojoba oil, which is typically used as a humectant, has been found to exhibit significant beneficial properties as an analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiparasitic, and antipyretic agent25 Essential oils have significantly increased in popularity in recent years However, it is crucial to realize that these ingredients are common allergens28
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