COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE in .NET

Generator QR Code 2d barcode in .NET COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE

COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
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Natural oils contain fatty acids that are important in maintaining the skin barrier Linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid present in sunflower, safflower, and other oils, is an example of an essential fatty acid that must be obtained from the diet or through topical application In addition to providing structural lipids needed for barrier integrity, linoleic acid is used by the body to produce -linolenic acid (GLA) GLA is a polyunsaturated essential cis fatty acid important in the production of prostaglandins; therefore, it plays a role in the inflammatory process Many oils and foods contain linoleic acid (Table 32-1) Several of these oils are found in skin care products that supply fatty acids while functioning as occlusive agents SUNFLOWER SEED OIL (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS) The primary constituents of
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sunflower oil, oleic and linoleic acids, are fatty acids that, as suggested above, confer particular benefits to the skin In a study by Darmstadt et al intended to identify safe and inexpensive vegetable oils that are effective in enhancing epidermal barrier function and available in developing countries, researchers testing various oils on mouse epidermal barrier function found that mustard, olive, and soybean oils significantly delayed recovery compared to controls or skin treated with Aquaphor, which is used to ameliorate skin barrier function However, one application of sunflower seed oil significantly accelerated skin barrier function recovery within an hour and sustained this result 5 hours after application21 More recently, some of the same investigators compared the effects of the topically applied emollients sunflower seed oil and Aquaphor in the prevention of nosocomial infections in very low birthweight premature infants in Bangladesh Infants born before week 33 of gestation after hospital admission were randomly assigned to daily massage with either agent (159 subjects in each group) and results were compared with 181 untreated controls by intention-to-treat analysis Infants treated with sunflower seed oil were 41% less likely to develop nosocomial infections as compared to controls (Aquaphor performed slightly better than no treatment, but did not significantly reduce infection risk) This study also fulfilled one of the aims of the earlier study by Darmstadt et al, finding sunflower seed oil an effective, affordable, and available emollient option for patients in developing countries22
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Massage therapists and others who are routinely exposed to essential oils should try and limit their exposure in order to lower their risk for developing an allergy to the topically applied oil that can translate to an allergy to the related oil in food products29
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Humectants are water-soluble materials with high water absorption capabilities They have the capacity to attract water from the atmosphere (if atmospheric humidity is greater than 80%) and from the underlying epidermis Although humectants may draw water from the environment to help hydrate the skin, in low-humidity conditions they may take water from the deeper epidermis and dermis resulting in increased skin dryness30 For this reason, they work better when combined with occlusives Humectants are also popular additives to cosmetic moisturizers because they prevent product evaporation and thickening, thereby extending the shelf life of various moisturizers Some humectants have bacteriostatic activity as well31 Humectants draw water into the skin, causing a slight swelling of the SC that gives the perception of smoother skin with fewer wrinkles As a result, many moisturizers are touted as antiwrinkle creams even though they impart no long-term antiwrinkling effect Examples of commonly used humectants include glycerin, sorbitol, sodium hyaluronate, urea, propylene glycol, alpha hydroxy acids, and sugars
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skin treated with high glycerin formulations shows that glycerin causes an expansion of the SC because of increased thickness of the corneocytes and expanded spaces between layers of corneocytes35 These findings suggest that glycerin appears to create a reservoir of moisture-holding ability that renders the skin more resistant to drying as seen in Appa s study Glycerin also functions by stabilizing and fluidizing cell membranes and by hydrating enzymes needed for desmosome degradation34 Glycerol can be obtained from topical preparations but can also be transported from the circulation into the epidermis through aquaporin channels (see 11) Recent studies have shown that normal SC hydration requires endogenous glycerol36 Two unrelated inbred mouse models demonstrated the potential importance of endogenous glycerol for normal SC hydration Knockout mice, which lack the aquaporin-3 (AQP-3) water channel, are unable to transport glycerol from the circulation into the epidermis and they exhibit abnormal SC hydration and reduced SC glycerol levels37 This defect in mice is corrected when glycerol is applied topically38 Glycerin has been available for many years but this new research suggests that it is here to stay
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