COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE in .NET

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COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
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avenanthramides reduced the release of the proinflammatory cytokine IL-8 by 10% to 25% Various other preclinical and preliminary clinical studies have demonstrated a wide range of potential benefits from topical compounds that contain avenanthramides, including: reduction of histamine-induced itch in humans; inhibition of NF- B, thus inhibiting the activation of inflammatory pathways in the skin; and the amelioration of skin irritation and erythema induced by exposure to UVB irradiation
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Selenium
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Selenium is an essential trace element found in the human body, and it is thought to have anticarcinogenic, antiinflammatory, antioxidant, and therefore antiaging properties Water, soil, and plant foods are the major sources of selenium in most countries It is also found in meat, fish, Brazil nuts, shellfish, dairy products, cereals, and cereal products Selenium is a component of the water used in the La Roche-Posay spa in France that was founded to treat atopic dermatitis patients and psoriasis patients Many of the La Roche-Posay products, including the thermal spring water, contain selenium The anti-inflammatory role of selenium is very well expressed in one of the reductive metabolic pathways in humans: selenium is the vital antioxidant required to form glutathione peroxidase, one of our most important natural antioxidant defenses The function of this essential antioxidant enzyme (discussed in section Role of Free Radicals ) is to protect cell membranes from oxidative deterioration, a role that it shares with vitamin E In fact, studies have concluded that vitamin E and selenium act synergistically to deliver such protection139 Selenium also exerts anti-inflammatory activity in preventing the production of inflammatory cytokines One study showed that after damage to the skin from UV exposure, inflammatory cytokines inhibited the immune response, thus increasing the number of damaged skin cells140 These inflammatory cytokines also lead to the formation of wrinkles and premature aging of the skin Selenium can decrease production of these cytokines, thereby preventing inflammation Finally, selenium enhances both humoral and cellular immunity, increasing the host response to infection141 As a result of its antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties, selenium has been added to topical skin care products as well as natural spring water vaporiz-
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ers for the skin The current recommended daily allowance of oral selenium is 55 g for both men and women However, cancer researchers are currently considering daily doses as high as 400 g It must be noted that selenium toxicity, or selenosis, is possible High doses of selenium are neurotoxic and can cause hair loss, nail loss, and dermatitis, as well as gastrointestinal upset Despite advertising claims, most available topical formulations contain very low concentrations of selenium, which are not well absorbed by the skin Formulated as selenium sulfide, selenium does not penetrate the skin However, cutaneous selenium absorption can be achieved with L-selenomethionine Recent animal and human studies have found that when taken orally or applied topically in the form of L-selenomethionine, selenium demonstrated protection against both daily and excessive UV damage In one study a decade ago, treated patients experienced decreased skin inflammation and pigmentation, plus a delay in the onset and a decrease in the incidence of skin cancer142 In a different study performed in the 1990s, researchers at the University of Edinburgh, Scotland, UK, concluded that oral selenium resulted in significant protective effects against UV radiationinduced damage to skin cells The researchers did not examine topical selenium141 Although these early studies of the effects of both oral and topical selenium are promising, more doubleblind, placebo-controlled trials are needed to support selenium as an adjunct to the antiaging product market
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ibuprofen146 Moreover, it has been demonstrated to exhibit significant wound healing, anticarcinogenic and antioxidant properties Finally, curcumin produces different effects depending on the dosing level; at low dose it can be a PG inhibitor, while at higher levels it stimulates the adrenal glands to secrete cortisone147
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