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CHAPTER 40 THE PSYCHOSOCIAL ASPECTS OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY
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among patients with acne vulgaris J Am Acad Dermatol 2007;57:222 79 Elias PM Stratum corneum defensive functions: an integrated view J Invest Dermatol 2005;125:183 80 Kao JS, Fluhr JW, Man MQ, et al Short-term glucocorticoid treatment compromises both permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity: inhibition of epidermal lipid synthesis accounts for functional abnormalities J Invest Dermatol 2003;120:456 81 Choi EH, Brown BE, Crumrine D, et al Mechanisms by which psychologic stress alters cutaneous permeability
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barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity J Invest Dermatol 2005;124:587 82 Arck PC, Slominski A, Theoharides TC, et al Neuroimmunology of stress: skin takes center stage J Invest Dermatol 2006;126:1697 83 Hendrix S: Neuroimmune communication in skin: far from peripheral J Invest Dermatol 2008;128:260 84 Pavlovic S, Daniltchenko M, Tobin DJ, et al Further exploring the brain skin connection: stress worsens dermatitis via substance P-dependent neurogenic inflammation in mice J Invest Dermatol 2008;128:434
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85 Aberg KM, Radek KA, Choi EH, et al Psychological stress downregulates epidermal antimicrobial peptide expression and increases severity of cutaneous infections in mice J Clin Invest 2007;177:3339 86 Slominski A A nervous breakdown in the skin: stress and the epidermal barrier J Clin Invest 2007;177:3166 87 Inoue K, Hosoi J, Ideta R, et al Stress augmented ultraviolet-irradiation-induced pigmentation J Invest Dermatol 2003; 121:165 88 Jafferany M Psychodermatology: a guide to understanding common psychocutaneous disorders Prim Care Companion J Clin Psychiatry 2007;9:203
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COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
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INDEX
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INDEX
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A ablative lasers, 229 acne (type 1 sensitive skin), 94, 121 anti-inflammatory agents for, 125 botulinum toxin (BTX) and, 184 diet and, 45 chocolate, 46 47 iodine, 46 milk, 46 differential diagnosis, 122 lesion, 122 mild cleansing agents for, 270 moisturization and, 126 pathophysiology follicular keratinization changes, 122 influence of bacteria, 122 sebaceous gland hyperactivity, 121 prevention regimen, 126 sebum changes in patients with, 80 sex hormones and, 30 soap for, 270 superficial peel indication, 160 treatment, 122 eliminating or reducing P Acnes bacteria, 124 125 inflammatory response attacking approach, 125 normalizing keratinization/exfoliation, 123 124 pore clogging materials removal, 125 sebum level reduction, 125 variants acne cosmetica, 126 acne detergicans, 126 rosacea, 126 Acne Quality of Life Scale, 342 adapalene, 261 adipocytes, 14, 19 adipose See also lipids conditions cellulite, 19 lipodystrophy, 19 tissue brown, 14 white, 14 adrenopause, 29 aging See skin aging allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) See under contact dermatitis (type 4 sensitive skin) aloe vera, 317
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aloesin, 280 alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) See also beta hydroxy acids (BHA) as depigmenting agent, 287 as moisturizing agent, 275 in superficial peels glycolic acid, 149 disadvantages of, 152 153 lactic acid, 150 preparations, 153 alpha lipoic acid (ALA), 52 antioxidant chemical composition, 303 penetration into stratum corneum, 303 systemic administration, 303 topical application, 303 as depigmenting agent, 286 androgen receptors (AR), 30 andropause, 29 anti-aging agents, 257 See also retinoids anti-inflammatory agents acne and, 125 cell-derived mediators cytokines, 23, 312 313 eicosanoids, 312 free radicals, 314 histamine, 313 314 mast cells, 313 for inflammatory skin diseases treatment aloe vera, 317 chamomile, 317 cucumber extract, 317 318 cyclooxygenase inhibitors, 316 feverfew (FF), 318 ginseng, 318 licorice extract, 318 319 mushrooms, 319 320 natural ingredients, 317 321 oatmeal, 320 salicylic acid, 316 selenium, 321 sulfur/sulfacetamide, 316 317 topical corticosteroids, 315 topical immune modulators, 315 316 turmeric/curcumin, 321 plasma-derived mediators complement, 314 315 cutaneous inflammation, 315 kinins, 315 antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) dry skin and, 89 90
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epidermis and, 5 antioxidants, 52 53, 292 alpha lipoic acid (ALA), 286, 303 as depigmenting agents, 284 dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), 304 diet for skin, 61 fat- and water-soluble antioxidant, 303 fat-soluble coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), 294 295 curcumin, 296 297 idebenone, 295 296 lycopene, 296 vitamin E, 293 294 free radical theory of aging and, 292 genistein, 303 304 green tea, 285 in sunscreens, 250 251 melatonin, 305 pycnogenol, 286, 304 selenium, 305 silymarin, 286 synergy, 293 theory, 292, 293 water-soluble coffee berry extract, 300 glutathione, 297 grape seed extract, 301 302 green tea, 299 300 Polypodium leucotomos (PL), 300 301 pomegranate, 302, 303 resveratrol, 301 silymarin, 300 vitamin C, 297 298 Apocrine glands, 115 apocrine-eccrine glands, 116 Aquamid filler benefits, 206 drawbacks, 206 aquaporins, 88 arbutin, 280 arnica, 53, 165 Artefill filler benefits, 203 drawbacks, 203 for valley scars, 231 atrophic scars boxcar scars, 228 229 ice pick scars, 228 pretreatment considerations, 227 shallow atrophic scars, 229 230 valley scars, 230 231
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autologous fat fillers for valley scars, 230 transplantation complications, 18 azelaic acid, 283 B basal layer (stratum basale), 3 Baumann Skin Typing System (BSTS), 342 See also skin of color Baumann Skin Type Indicator (BSTI), 69 ethnic skin variations, 79 80 oily skin determination and, 79 80 sensitive skin testing, 96 skin aging skin care wrinkled (W) to tight (T), 73 spectrum of wrinkled (W) to tight (T), 73 skin hydration skin care oily (O) to dry (D), 70 spectrum of oily (O) to dry (D), 70 skin pigmentation skin care pigmented (P) to nonpigmented (N), 72 spectrum of pigmented (P) to nonpigmented (N), 72 skin sensitivity sensitive (S) to resistant (R), 70 skin care sensitive (S) to resistant (R), 71 72 spectrum of sensitive (S) to resistant (R), 70 71 skin type combinations and changes, 73 74 type 1 (acne manifested), 94, 121 126 type 2 (rosacea manifested), 95, 128 131 type 3 (burning and stinging manifested), 95, 133 135 type 4 (contact dermatitis and irritant dermatitis manifested), 95, 136 143 Beau Visage, 339 340 See also bioengineering of skin benign neoplasms, 40 benzophenones, 250 beta hydroxy acids (BHA) See also alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) as depigmenting agent, 287 in superficial peels, 148 152 disadvantages of, 152 preparations, 153 beta-carotene, 53 bioengineered human collagen fillers, 194 benefits, 195 drawbacks, 195 bioengineering of skin, 335 objective measurements Beau Visage, 339 340 Canfield scientific camera system, 339 Chromameter (colorimetry), 337 Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy (CLSM), 339 Corneometer (corneometry), 337 corneosurfametry, 337 Cosmetrics, 340 Cutometer, 337 Dermaflex, 338 dermoscopy, 339 evaporimeter or tewameter, 336 laser Doppler velocimetry, 336 optical profilometry, 338 pH meter, 336 photography, 338
polarized light photography, 338 red-wine provocation test, 336 Reviscometer, 337 sebutape, 336 squamometry, 337 thermography, 336 transepidermal water loss, 336 TruVu digital imaging system, 338 ultraviolet light, 338 UV light photography, 338 subjective measurements challenge patch test, 335 chloroform methanol and sorbic acid tests, 335 exaggerated immersion tests, 335 itch response evaluation, 335 lactic acid stinging test, 335 thermal sensation test, 335 washing test, 335 biotin (vitamin B7), 54 body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), 351 352 See also psychosocial aspects body mass index (BMI), 16 See also obesity borage seed oil, 54 Borrelia burgdorferi, 26 botulinum toxins (BTX) acne vulgaris and, 184 action mechanisms, 169 BTX-A and cosmetic surgery, 186 Botox Cosmetic, 170 combined therapies, 186 effects at neuroglandular junction, 182 Neuronox, 171 pain control aspects, 183 Prosigne, 171 Reloxin/Dysport, 170 Xeomin, 171 BTX-B Myobloc, 171 pain control aspects, 183 chemical liposuction and, 185 clinical indications, 170 clinical uses brow lift and microdroplet technique, 175 177 BTX-A use in lower face, 177 bunny lines, 177 chest, 180 crow s feet, 175 dynamic wrinkles, 172 175 melomental folds, 178 mentalis muscle and chin puckering, 179 nasal tip lift, 177 neck lines and platysma, 179 Nefertiti lift, 179 perioral lines, 178 upper gum show, 178 diffusion characteristics, 172 ethnic differences in toxin responses, 180 for dynamic wrinkles forehead region, 173 175 glabellar region, 172 173 gender and, 180 hair growth control and, 185 hyperhidrosis, 180 182 in facial flushing, 183 in migraine headaches, 183 inguinal hyperhidrosis (IH), 181 182 pain control aspects, 183 pain control aspects of, 182
resistance to (antibodies development aspects), 186 187 side effects, 187 188 bovine collagen fillers benefits, 193 drawbacks, 193, 194 overview, 192 boxcar scars See also ice pick scars; shallow atrophic scars; valley scars deep peels/phenol peels for, 228 dermabrasion for, 229 lasers for, 229 punch elevation for, 228 breast cancer, parabens and, 330 bromelain for bruising prevention and treatment, 164 nutrition and skin, 54 brow lift and microdroplet technique, 175 177 brown adipose tissue, 14 bruising bruise severity rating, 163 prevention and treatment, 163 165 arnica, 165 bromelain, 164 NSAIDs for, 164 bunny lines, 177 burning and stinging skin (type 3 sensitive skin) epidemiology, 133 ethnicity and stinging, 134 mechanisms, 133 potential stinger identification aspects, 134 prevention, 135 rosacea and stinging, 134 sensory nervous system role, 133 134 skin barrier and stinging, 134 stinging ingredients, 134 vasodilatation and itching, 133 134 C cadaveric collagen fillers, 195 benefits, 195 drawbacks, 195 caffeine supplement, 54 See also nutrition and skin calcium hydroxylapatite fillers, 231 caloric restriction (CR), 61 camera system, 339 camouflage cosmetics, 107 See also pigmentation disorders Canfield scientific camera system, 339 Captique fillers benefits, 199 drawbacks, 199 carotenoids, 47 cellulite Hexsel Classification, 19 pathogenesis, 19 treatment, 19 ceramides dry skin and, 85 86 in stratum corneum barrier function, 112 chamomile, 317 chemical liposuction, 185 chemical peels at-home, 160 deeper-depth, 148, 159 for facial scar revision chemical peels and laser resurfacing, 232 laser laser resurfacing/dermabrasion/ subcision/fillers/chemical peel, 232 233
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