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A receptacle, with GFI protection, is required within 3 feet of each basin in a bathroom The receptacles must not be mounted face up in the countertop
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When you are wiring a room that does not have a switch operated, built in light, you must install a switched outlet for the use of a lamp
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switching a receptacle we mean only half of a duplex unit This is done by running three conductor cable from box to box around the room Usually the black conductor will be hot all of the time while the red conductor will be on or off with the wall switch When you wire receptacles in this fashion, you must break the jumper tab off from between the two brass colored terminals This is best accomplished by working it back and forth with a small pair of needle nosed pliers Black connects to one screw and red connects to the other All receptacles in the room should be wired uniformly so that all of the top receptacles are controlled by the wall switch Wiring a duplex receptacle in this fashion is called split wiring The outlet is known as a split wired receptacle
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Lighting inside a closet is optional In my opinion, it adds a great deal of convenience for the occupants, not to mention adding value to the house Closet lighting can be done most simply by placing a wall switch inside the closet on the strike side of the door Connect the switch to an incandescent jelly jar fixture mounted over the center of the door Clearance from the light to the storage space must be at least 12 inches Usually, clearance is not an issue with this method, but if it is, a fluorescent fixture may be used with a minimum clearance of 6 inches Incandescent fixtures that are recessed with a completely enclosed lamp may be used with a minimum clearance of 6 inches to the storage space Incandescent luminaires that do not completely enclose the lamp are not permitted inside a closet Pendant and open bulb lamp holders are also not permitted inside a closet The control of the closet light can be made by a couple of neat options that could prove more convenient to some of your customers Following is a list of possibilities:
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Use a single pole switch with pilot light Install it outside the closet on either side of the door The occupants will know if the closet light has been left on if the pilot light is lit on the wall switch Use a single pole plunger switch installed in the door casing on the hinge side When the door is closed the plunger is held in and the light remains de-energized When the door is opened, the plunger pops out and power is sent to the light If the door stays open the occupant will see that the light is on and shut the door Larger walk in closets need more light A 4 foot long, one or two lamp fluorescent wrap around fixture is an excellent choice for years of efficient, maintenance free lighting
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When referring to an attic, I m talking about the area of a house below the roof and above the ceiling of the last floor This attic is not used for anything It has open truss work and the floor is covered with insulation Under normal circumstances nobody ever goes up into this space If anybody ever goes up there it would probably be to investigate a problem The problem could be a roof leak, a frozen plumbing vent, a ventilation problem, or birds, rodents, insects, etc I like to install two or three incandescent lamp holders with 100 watt lamps in this space Mount them as high as possible, but not higher than would make them hard to change the bulbs from a standing position The switch should be located near the access hole to the space Anybody going into the attic can illuminate it before completely entering it This way, any hazards such as bees nests, bats, or rodents can be seen before it is too late Another neat idea is to use lamp holders with integral receptacles This would provide power for additional lighting or power tools that might be needed in the attic
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