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This section reviews simple wire antennas that are suitable for the reception of shortwave signals, although not necessarily for transmitting Once again, you are reminded that the law of reciprocity permits you to use any transmitting antenna found in other chapters for receiving also Figure 13-5 shows the common receiving longwire The antenna element should be 30 to 150 ft in length Although most texts show it horizontal to the ground (and indeed, a case can be made that performance is better that way), it is not strictly necessary If you must slope the wire, then it is doubtful that you will notice any reception problems The far end of the wire is attached to a supporting structure through an insulator and a rope The support structure can be another building, a tree, or a mast installed especially for this purpose 28 deals with antenna construction practices Wind will cause motion in the antenna wire and its supporting structure Over time, the wind movement will fatigue the antenna wire and cause it to break Also, if a big enough gust of wind (or a sustained storm) comes along, then even a new antenna can either sag badly or break altogether You can do either of two things to reduce the problem First, as shown in Fig 13-5, a door spring can be used to provide a little variable slack in the wire The spring tension is selected to be only partially expanded under normal conditions, so wind will increase the tension, and stretch the spring Make sure that the spring is not too strong to be stretched by the action of wind on the antenna, or no good is accomplished
278 Antennas for shortwave reception
Mast, tree or other support Rope Insulator Screw eyelet
House Screw eyelet Insulator Downlead Lightning arrestor Window
30 to 150 feet antenna wire
Antenna wire Ground tab
Doorspring or counterweight
Ground wire
Ground rod
13-5 Longwire SWL antenna
Another tactic is to replace the spring with a counterweight that is heavy enough to keep the antenna nearly taut under normal conditions, but not so heavy that it fails to move under wind conditions In other words, the antenna tension should exactly balance the counterweight under normal conditions, and not be too great that it stretches the antenna wire excessively The antenna wire should be either no 12 or no 14 hard-drawn copper, or Copperweld stranded wire The latter is actually steel-core wire, but has a copper coating on the outside Because of skin effect, RF signals flow only in the outer copper coating Soft-drawn copper wire will stretch and break prematurely, so it should be avoided The downlead of the antenna must be insulated, and it should also be stranded wire (which breaks less easily than solid wire) Again, no 12 or no 14 wire should be used, although no 16 would be permissible The point where the downlead and antenna are joined should be soldered to prevent corrosion of the joint Mechanical strength is provided by proper splicing technique (see Fig 13-6) Do not depend on the solder for mechanical strength, for it has none There are several ways to bring a downlead into the building First, if you can tolerate a slight crack in the junction of the sash and sill, then run the wire underneath the sash and close the window Alternatively, you can buy a flat strap connector to pass under the window This method is electrically the same as running the lead, but is mechanically nicer 28 deals with several methods, and should be consulted
Grounding
The ground lead should be a heavy conductor, such as heavy wire or braid The shield stripped from RG-8 or RG-11 coaxial cable is suitable for most applications For reception purposes only, the ground may be a cold-water pipe inside the house Do not use the hot-water pipes (which are not well grounded) or gas pipes (which
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