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The forearm attaches to the end of the upper arm. The joint there serves as the elbow. The forearm is constructed much like the upper arm: cut the small and large pieces of channel aluminum to eight inches instead of ten inches. Construct the elbow joint as shown in Figs. 25.3 and 25.4, using two 1 1/2-inch-by-3/8-inch flat corner angles, 1/2-inch spacers, and 10/24 hardware. The 3/4-inch timing belt sprocket (5 lugs per inch) is used to convey power from the elbow motor, which is mounted at the shoulder. The completed joint is shown in Fig. 25.5. You can actually use just about any size of timing belt or sprocket. When using the size of sprockets specified in Table 25.1, the timing belt is 20 1/2 inches. If you use another size sprocket for the elbow or the motor, you may need to choose another length. You can adjust for some slack by mounting the elbow joint closer or farther to the end of the upper arm. You may also use #25 roller chain to power the elbow. Use a sprocket on the elbow and a sprocket on the motor shaft. Connect the two with a #25 roller chain. You ll need to experiment based on the size of sprockets you use to come up with the exact length for the roller chain. When the elbow and forearm are complete, mount the motor on the shoulder, directly on the plate cover. The motor we chose for the prototype revolute coordinate arm was a
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380 BUILD A REVOLUTE COORDINATE ARM
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Flat washer Nut(X2) (as spacers)
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Nut 7" length 1/4"-20 all-thread rod
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All 1/4"-20 hardware
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FIGURE 25.2 Shoulder shaft detail. a. Completed shaft; b. Exploded view.
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one-amp medium-duty stepper motor. Predrilled holes on the face of the motor made it easier to mount the arm. A 3-inch-by-3/4-inch mending plate T was used to secure the motor to the plate, as illustrated in Fig. 25.6. New holes were drilled in the plate to match the holes in the motor (1 7/8-inch spacing), and the T was bent at the cross. Unscrew the nut holding the cover plate and upper arm to the shaft, place the T on it, and retighten. Make sure the motor is perpendicular to the arm. Then, using the other hole in the T as a guide, drill a hole through the cover plate. Secure the T in place with an 8/32 by 1/2-inch bolt and nut. The finished arm, with a gripper attached, is shown in Fig. 25.7.
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Refinements
As it is, the arm is unbalanced, and the shoulder motor must work harder to position the arm. You can help to rebalance the arm by relocating the shoulder rotation shaft and by adding counterweights or springs. Before you do anything hasty, however, you may want to attach a gripper to the end of the forearm. Any attempts to balance the arm now will be
REFINEMENTS 381
1 1/2" x 3/8" Flat corner angle
Tooth lockwasher Nut
Upper arm piece
1/2" aluminum spacer
1 3/4" x 10/24 bolt
FIGURE 25.3 Upper arm elbow joint detail. a. Complete joint; b. Exploded view.
severely thwarted when you add the gripper. The center of gravity for the whole arm, with the elbow drive motor included, is approximately midway along the length of the upper arm (at least this is true of the prototype arm; your arm may be different). Remove the long shaft from the present shoulder joint, and replace it with a short 1 1/2-inch- or 2-inch-long 1/4-inch 20 bolt. Drill a new 1/4-inch hole through the upper arm at the approximate center of gravity, and thread the shoulder shaft through it. Attach it as before, using 1/4-inch 20 nuts, flat washers, and toothed lock washers. The forearm is also out of balance, and you can correct it in a similar manner, by attaching the shoulder joint nearer to the center of the arm. This has the unfortunate side effect, however, of shortening the reach of the forearm. One solution is to make the arm longer to compensate. In effect, you ll be keeping the elbow joint where it is, just adding extra length
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