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3. Dip the board into the bowl and scrub the copper (or tin-plated) traces with a non-
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metallic scrubbing pad (such as 3M ScotchBrite). Do not rub too vigorously.
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4. Rinse the board under cold water and blot it dry with a paper towel. If desired, use com-
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pressed air to drive the trapped water out of the component holes. Let the board dry completely for 10 to 15 minutes. When you are ready to solder, wet a cotton ball with isopropyl alcohol (or other cleaner) and wipe off all the connection points. Wait a few seconds for the alcohol to evaporate, then commence soldering.
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The basis of successful soldering is to use the soldering iron to heat up the work, whether it is a component lead, a wire, or whatever. You then apply the solder to the work. Do not apply solder directly to the soldering iron. If you take the shortcut of melting the solder on the iron, you might end up with a cold solder joint. A cold joint doesn t adhere well to the metal surfaces of the part or board, so electrical connection is impaired. Once the solder flows around the joint (and some will flow to the tip), remove the iron and let the joint cool. Avoid disturbing the solder as it cools; a cold joint might be the result. Do not apply heat any longer than necessary. Prolonged heat can permanently ruin electronic components. A good rule of thumb is that if the iron is on any one spot for more than five seconds, it s too long. If at all possible, you should keep the iron at a 30 to 40 angle for best results. Most tips have a beveled tip for this purpose. Apply only as much solder to the joint as is required to coat the lead and circuit board pad. A heavy-handed soldering job may lead to soldering bridges, which is when one joint melds with joints around it. At best, solder bridges cause the circuit to cease working; at worst, they cause short circuits that can burn out the entire board. When the joint is complete and has cooled, test it to make sure it is secure. Wiggle the component to see if the joint is solid. If the lead moves within the joint, you ll have to resolder it. The cause may be that the joint is dirty, so you may have to remove the old solder first, clean the connection, and try again. When soldering on printed circuit boards, you ll need to clip off the excess leads that protrude beyond the solder joint. Use a pair of diagonal or nippy cutters for this task. Be sure to protect your eyes when cutting the lead; a bit of metal could fly off and lodge in one of your eyes.
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After soldering, let the iron cool. Loosen the tip from the heating element (use a pair of pliers and grip the tip by the shaft). Then store the iron until you need it again. After
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several soldering sessions, you should clean the tip using a soft brush. Don t file it or sand it down with emery paper. After many hours of use, the soldering tip will become old, pitted, and deformed. This is a good time to replace the tip. Old or damaged tips impair the transfer of heat from the iron to the connection, and that can lead to poor soldering joints. Be sure to replace the tip with one made for specifically your soldering iron. Tips are generally not interchangeable between brands.
SOLDER SAFETY
Keep the following points in mind when soldering:
I A hot soldering iron can seriously burn you. Keep your fingers away from the tip of the
soldering pencil.
I Never touch a solder joint until after it has cooled. I While using the soldering iron, always place it in a properly designed iron stand. I While the fumes produced during soldering are not particularly offensive, they are
mildly toxic. Avoid inhaling the fumes for any length of time. Work only in a well-ventilated area. I Protect your eyes when clipping leads off components. If possible, wear eye protection such as safety glasses or optically clear goggles. I Keep a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.
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