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19.7.1 MORE ABOUT PULLEYS AND BELTS
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Pulleys come in a variety of shapes and sizes. You re probably familiar with the pulleys and belts used in automotive applications. These are likely to be too bulky and heavy to be used with a robot. Instead, look for smaller and lighter pulleys and belts used for copiers, fax machines, VCRs, and other electronic equipment. These are available for salvage from whole units or in bits and pieces from surplus outlets. Pulleys can be either the V type (the pulley wheel has a V-shaped groove in it) or the cog type. Cog pulleys require matching belts. You need to ensure that the belt is not only the proper width for the pulley you are using but also has the same cog pitch.
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19.7.2 MORE ABOUT SPROCKETS AND ROLLER CHAIN
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Sprockets and roller chain are preferred when you want to ensure synchronism. For large robots you can use 3 8-in bicycle chain. Most smaller robots will do fine with 1 4-in roller chain, which can frequently be found in surplus stores. Metal roller chain is commonly available in preset lengths, though you can sometimes shorten or lengthen the chain by adding or removing links. Plastic roller chain, while not as strong, can be adjusted more easily by using snap-on links.
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19.8 Mounting the Motor
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Every motor requires a different mounting arrangement. It s easier for you when the motor has its own mounting hardware or holes; you can use these to mount the motor in your robot. Remember that Japanese- and European-made motors often have metric threads, so be sure to use the proper-sized bolt.
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CHOOSING THE RIGHT MOTOR
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Other motors may not be as cooperative. Either the mounting holes are in a position where they don t do you much good, or the motor is completely devoid of any means for securing it to your robot. You can still mount these motors successfully by using an assortment of clamps, brackets, woodblocks, and homemade angles. For example, to secure the motor shown in Fig. 19-13, mounting brackets were fashioned using 6-in galvanized iron mending T plates. A large hole was drilled for the drive shaft and gear to poke through, and the two halves of the mounting bracket were joined together with nuts, bolts, and spacers. The bracket was then attached to the frame of the robot using angle irons and standard hardware. This motor arrangement was made a little more difficult by the addition of a drive gear and sprocket. Construction time for each motor bracket was about 90 min. Another example is shown in Fig. 19-14. Here, the motor has mounting holes on the end by the shaft, but these holes are in the wrong position for the design of the robot. Two commonly available flat corner irons were used to mount the motor. This is just one approach; a number of other mounting schemes might have worked satisfactorily as well. This design is more thoroughly discussed in 27, Build a Revolute Coordinate Arm. You can also fashion your own mounting brackets using metal or plastic. Cut the bracket to the size you need, and drill mounting holes. This technique works well when you are using servo motors for model radio-controlled cars and airplanes.
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FIGURE 19-13 One approach to mounting a large motor in a robot. The motor is sandwiched inside two large hardware plates and is secured to the frame of the motor with angle irons.
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19.9 CONNECTING TO THE MOTOR SHAFT
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FIGURE 19-14 Another approach to mounting a motor to a robot. Flat corner irons secure the motor flange to the frame.
If the motor lacks mounting holes, you can use clamps to hold it in place. U-bolts, available at the hardware store, are excellent solutions. Choose a U-bolt that is large enough to fit around the motor. The rounded shape of the bolt is perfect for motors with round casings. If desired, you can make a holding block out of plastic or wood to keep the bottom of the motor from sliding. Cut the plastic or wood to size, and round it out with a router, rasp, or file so it matches the shape of the motor casing.
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