vb.net barcode reader from image Copyright 2006, 2001, 1987 by The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Click here for terms of use. in Software

Encoder QR in Software Copyright 2006, 2001, 1987 by The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Click here for terms of use.

Copyright 2006, 2001, 1987 by The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Click here for terms of use.
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BUILDING A ROVERBOT
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FIGURE 23-1 The finished Roverbot (minus the batteries), ready for just about any enhancement you see fit.
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23.1 Building the Base
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Construct the base of the Roverbot using shelving standards or extruded aluminum channel stock. The prototype Roverbot for this book used aluminum shelving standards because aluminum minimized the weight of the robot. The size of the machine didn t require the heavierduty steel shelving standards. The base measures 125 8 by 91 8 in. These unusual dimensions make it possible to accommodate the galvanized nailing (mending) plates, which are discussed later in this
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23.1 BUILDING THE BASE
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125/8"
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91/8"
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FIGURE 23-2 Cutting diagram for the Roverbot.
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chapter. Cut two pieces each of 125 8-in stock, with 45 miter edges on both sides, as shown in Fig. 23-2 (refer to the parts list in Table 23-1). Do the same with the 91 8-in stock. Assemble the pieces using 11 4-by-3 8-in flat corner irons and 8 32-by-1 2-in nuts and bolts. Be sure the dimensions are as precise as possible and that the cuts are straight and even. Because you are using the mending plates as a platform, it s doubly important with this design that you have a perfectly square frame. Don t bother to tighten the nuts and bolts at this point. Attach one 43 16-by-9-in mending plate to the left third of the base. Temporarily undo the nuts and bolts on the corners to accommodate the plate. Drill new holes for the bolts in the plate if necessary. Repeat the process for the center and left mending plates. When the three plates are in place, tighten all the hardware. Make sure the plates are secure on the frame by drilling additional holes near the inside corners (don t bother if the corner already has a bolt securing it to the frame). Use 8 32-by-1 2-in bolts and nuts to attach the plates into place. The finished frame should look something like the one depicted in Fig. 23-3. The underside should look like Fig. 23-4.
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BUILDING A ROVERBOT
TABLE 23-1
Parts List for Roverbot FRAME
2 2 3 4
125 8-in length aluminum or steel shelving standard 91 8-in length aluminum or steel shelving standard 43 16-by-9-in galvanized nailing (mending) plate 11 4-by-3 8-in flat corner iron RISER
4 2 2 4
15-in length aluminum or steel shelving standard 7-in length aluminum or steel shelving standard 101 2-in length aluminum or steel shelving standard 1-by-3 8-in corner angle iron MOTORS AND CASTER
2 4 2 2 Misc.
Gear reduced output 6 or 12 V DC motors 21 2-by-3 8-in corner angle iron 5- to 7-in diameter rubber wheels 11 4-in swivel caster Nuts, bolts, fender washers, tooth lock washers, etc. (see text) POWER
6 or 12 V, 1 or 2 A-h batteries (voltage depending on motor) Battery clamps
23.2 Motors
The Roverbot uses two drive motors for propulsion and steering. These motors, shown in Fig. 23-5, are attached in the center of the frame. The center of the robot was chosen to help distribute the weight evenly across the platform. The robot is less likely to tip over if you keep the center of gravity as close as possible to the center column of the robot. The 12-V motors used in the prototype were found surplus, and you can use just about any other motor you find as a substitute. The motors used in the prototype Roverbot come with a built-in gearbox that reduces the speed to about 38 r/min. The shafts are 1 4 in. Each shaft was threaded using a 1 4-in 20 die to secure the 6-in-diameter lawn mower wheels in place. You can skip the threading if the wheels you use have a setscrew or can
23.2 MOTORS
FIGURE 23-3 The top view of the Roverbot, with three galvanized mending plates added (holes in the plates not shown).
be drilled to accept a setscrew. Either way, make sure that the wheels aren t too thick for the shaft. The wheels used in the prototype were 11 2 in wide, perfect for the 2-in-long motor shafts. Mount the motors using two 21 2-by-3 8-in corner irons, as illustrated in Fig. 23-6. Cut about 1 in off one leg of the iron so it will fit against the frame of the motor. Secure the irons to the motor using 8 32-by-1 2-in bolts (yes, these motors have pretapped mounting holes!). Finally, secure the motors in the center of the platform using 8 32-by-1 2-in bolts and matching nuts. Be sure that the shafts of the motors are perpendicular to the side of the frame. If either motor is on crooked, the robot will crab to one side when it rolls on the floor. There is generally enough play in the mounting holes on the frame to adjust the motors for proper alignment. Now attach the wheels. Use reducing bushings if the hub of the wheel is too large for the shaft. If the shaft has been threaded, twist a 1 4-in 20 nut onto it, all the way to the base. Install the wheel using the hardware shown in Fig. 23-7. Be sure to use the tooth lock washer. The wheels may loosen and work themselves free otherwise. Repeat the process for the other motor.
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