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24.3 MOTORS
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Holes for Spacer Mounting
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Hole for Motor Shaft/ Drive Gear
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6 1/2" Mending "T"
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2 1/2" Bolt Mounting Flange (on Motor) Driven Gear Driver Gear Motor
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FIGURE 24-18 Motor mount details. a. Drilling guide for the mending T; b. the motor and drive gear-sprocket mounted with two mending Ts.
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TABLE 24-3 4 4 2 12 4 12 12 Misc.
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Parts List for Walkerbot Mount-Drive System 61 2-in galvanized mending plate T 3-in galvanized mending plate T Heavy-duty gear-reduction DC motors 31 2-in-diameter 30-tooth #15 chain sprocket 281 2-in-length #25 roller chain 21 2-by-11 2-by-1 4-in 20 U-bolts, with nuts and tooth lock washers 11 2-in O.D. 1 4 to 1 2-in ID bearing Reducing bushings (see text)
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BUILDING A HEAVY-DUTY SIX-LEGGED WALKING ROBOT
Inner Mounting Rail (Attached to End Cross Pieces)
Frame
3 3/8"
Top View
FIGURE 24-19 Mounting location of the inner rails.
FIGURE 24-20 One of the drive motors mounted on the robot using smaller galvanized mending Ts.
24.3 MOTORS
FIGURE 24-21 Drive motor attached to the Walkerbot, with drive chain joining the motor to the leg shafts.
Loop 1 Motor Mount
Chain
Loop 2
Idler (Mounted 2" "T")
Side View
FIGURE 24-22 Mounting locations for idler sprocket.
BUILDING A HEAVY-DUTY SIX-LEGGED WALKING ROBOT
FIGURE 24-23 A view of the mounted motor, with chain drive.
FIGURE 24-24 Left and right motors attached to the robot.
24.5 TESTING AND ALIGNMENT
24.4 Batteries
The Walkerbot is not a lightweight robot, and its walking design requires at least 30 percent more power than a wheeled robot. The batteries for the Walkerbot are not trivial. You have a number of alternatives. One workable approach is to use two 6-V motorcycle batteries, each rated at about 30 AH. The two batteries together equal a slimmed-down version of a car battery in size and weight. You can also use a 12-V motorcycle or dune buggy battery, rated at more than 20 AH. The prototype Walkerbot used 12-AH 6-V gel-cell batteries. The amp-hour capacity is a bit on the low side, considering the 2-A draw from each motor, and the planned heavy use of electronics and support circuits. In tests, the 12-AH batteries provided about 2 h of use before requiring a recharge. There is plenty of room to mount the batteries. A good spot is slightly behind the center legs. By offsetting the batteries a bit in relation to the drive motors, you restore the center of gravity to the center of the robot. Of course, other components you add to the robot can throw the center of gravity off. Add one or two articulated arms to the robot, and the weight suddenly shifts toward the front. For flexibility, you might want to mount the batteries on a sliding rail, which will allow you to shift their position forward or back depending on the other weight you add to the Walkerbot.
24.5 Testing and Alignment
You can test the operation of the Walkerbot by temporarily installing the wired control box you built earlier for the other, more basic robots that consists of two DPDT switches wired to control the forward and backward motion of the two legs. But before you test the Walkerbot, you need to align its legs. The legs on each side should be positioned so that either the center leg touches the ground or the front and back legs touch the ground. When the two sets of legs are working in tandem, the walking gait should be as shown in Fig. 24-25. This gait is the same as an insect s and provides a great deal of stability. To turn, one set of legs stops (or reverses) while the other set continues. During this time, the tripod arrangement of the gait will be lost, but the robot will still be supported by at least three legs. An easy way to align the legs is to loosen the chain sprockets (so you can move the legs independently) and position the middle leg all the way forward and the front and back legs all the way back. Retighten the sprockets, and look out for misalignment of the roller chain and sprockets. If a chain bends to mesh with a sprocket, it is likely to pop off when the robot is in motion. During testing, be on the lookout for things that rub, squeak, and work loose. Keep your wrench handy and adjust gaps and tighten bolts as necessary. Add a dab of oil to those parts that seem to be binding. You may find that a sprocket or gear doesn t stay tightened on a shaft. Look for ways to better secure the component to the shaft, such as by using a setscrew or another split lock washer. It may take several hours of tuning up to get the robot working at top efficiency.
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