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built-in protections against ESD, but there are still a number of things that you must do to ensure that the components are not damaged by static electricity, either during assembly or use. You can buy basic ESD protection kits, which consist of a conducting mat, a wrist strap with cord, and a static bleed line that can be attached to the grounding screw (holding the faceplate on an electrical outlet), for about $20. Before buying this type of kit, there are a number of things that you should be aware of. First, the term conducting when applied to the mat, the wrist strap, and the static bleed line is very loosely applied; each of these components should have internal resistances in the mega-ohm range. Do not buy an ESD kit that does not have a mega-ohm resistor in the wrist strap cord or the static bleed line as there could be dangerous voltages passed along them into you. Finally, before attaching the static bleed line to the electrical outlet s grounding screw make sure that the socket is wired properly using a socket tester (which costs around $5). All circuit assembly should take place on the conducting mat while you are wearing the wrist strap. When you buy electronic components, they will either be packaged in conducting plastic tubes or in anti-static bags. When you have completed the assembly operation, the components should be returned to their original packages and any assembled circuitry placed inside an anti-static bag. Operation of the circuitry can have potential problems as was noted at the start of this section. To minimize the chance of the robot s electronics becoming damaged, there are a few precautions that can be taken:
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The metal parts of the robot should all be connected together and connected to the ground (negative) connection of the robot s electronics. This will prevent static electricity from building up within the robot. Robot whiskers must be connected to the ground as they can generate static electricity when they run across an object. Castor mountings should be attached to the robot s ground connection to avoid buildups of static electricity. You might want to let a small metal chain or wire braid run on the ground while the robot is moving to help dissipate static charges from the robot. The robot electronics should be within some kind of metal box to protect them from static electricity when the robot is picked up. Connectors to PCs (e.g., USB or RS-232) for programming or monitoring must have the outside shells connected to the robot s metal frame and negative connection to make sure any static electricity buildup is not passed through either the robot s or the PC s electronics, damaging them.
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A digital multimeter (DMM and also known as a volt-ohm meter or multitester) is used to test voltage and current levels along with the resistance of different parts of circuits. Along with these basic functions, you can find DMMs that can test transistors and capacitors, and measure signal frequencies and temperature. They can be purchased from under $10 to several thousand, and if you don t already own a volt-ohm meter you should seriously consider buying one immediately. The low cost of a simple unit is disproportionate to the usefulness of the instrument.
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There are many DMMs on the market today. For robotics work, a meter of intermediate quality is sufficient and does the job admirably at a price between $30 and $75 (it tends to be on the low side of this range). Meters are available at Radio Shack and most electronics outlets. While analog (meters with needles) multimeters are still available, you should avoid them. Digital meters employ a numeric display not unlike a digital clock or watch. Analog meters use the older-fashioned mechanical movement with a needle that points to a set of graduated scales. When they first became available, DMMs (like the one shown in Fig. 6-2) used to cost a great deal more than the analog variety, but now they generally cost less than analog meters, are more easily read, and are usually more robust. In fact, it s hard to find a decent analog meter these days. Most low-cost DMMs require you to select the range before it can make an accurate measurement. For example, if you are measuring the voltage of a 9-V transistor battery, you set the range to the setting closest to, but above, 9 V (with most meters it is the 0 to 20 or 0 to 50-V range). Auto-ranging meters (which cost more than the basic models) don t require you to do this, so they are inherently easier to use. When you want to measure voltage, you set the meter to volts (either AC or DC) and take the measurement. The meter displays the results in the readout panel. Little of the work you ll do with robot circuits will require a DMM that s superaccurate; when working with electronics, being within a few percentage points of the desired value is normally good enough for a circuit to work properly. The accuracy of a meter is the mini-
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FIGURE 6-2 A volt-ohm meter (or multitester) checks resistance, voltage, and current. This model is digital and has a 31 2-digit liquid crystal display (LCD) readout.
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