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8.3.4 BATTERY HOLDER
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You can buy battery holders that hold from one to six dry cells in any of the popular battery sizes. The Minibot motors, like almost all small hobby motors, run off 1.5 to 6 V. A four-
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8.3 BUILD THE MINIBOT
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cell, AA battery holder does the job nicely. The wiring in the holder connects the batteries in series, so the output is 6 V. Secure the battery holder to the base with 8 32 nuts and bolts. Drill holes to accommodate the hardware. Be sure the nuts and bolts don t extend too far below the base or they may drag when the robot moves. Likewise, be sure the hardware doesn t interfere with the batteries.
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8.3.5 WIRING DIAGRAM
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The wiring diagram in Fig. 8-4 allows you to control the movement of the Minibot in all directions. This simple two-switch system, which will be used in many other projects in this book, uses double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) switches. The switches called for in the circuit are spring-loaded so they return to a center-off position when you let go of them. By using the dual pole double-throw switches, the electrical current passed to the motors changes direction as the switches are thrown from one extreme to the other. The actual connections are the same as what is used in an electrical H-bridge, which is discussed elsewhere in the book. For the hook-up wire used to connect the robot to the remote control box, you might want to try a 6-ft length of Cat-5 network cable; at least four wires must connect the robot to the remote control box (two for power and two for each motor). The color-coded and combined wires are ideal for an application like this.
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(Bottom View)
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Right Motor
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S2 DPDT Switch
(Bottom View)
Left Motor
Movement of contacts
FIGURE 8-4 Use this schematic for wiring the motor control switches for the Minibot. Note that the switches are double-pole, double-throw (DTDP), with a spring return to center-off.
PLASTIC PLATFORMS
8.4 From Here
To learn more about . . . Wooden robots Metal robots Using batteries Selecting the right motor Using a computer or microcontroller Read 9, Wooden Platforms 10, Metal Platforms 17, All About Batteries and Robot Power Supplies 19, Choosing the Right Motor for the Job 12, An Overview of Robot Brains
CHAPTER
WOODEN PLATFORMS
ood may not be high-tech, but it s an ideal building material for hobby robots. Wood is available just about everywhere. It s relatively inexpensive, easy to work with, and mistakes can be readily covered up, filled in, or painted over. In this chapter, using wood for robot structures will be presented and how you can apply simple woodworking skills to construct a basic wooden robot platform. This platform can then serve as the foundation for a number of robot designs you may want to explore.
9.1 Choosing the Right Wood
There is good wood and there is bad wood. Obviously, you want the good stuff, but you have to be willing to pay for it. For reasons you ll soon discover, you should buy only the best stock you can get your hands on. The better woods are available at specialty wood stores, particularly the ones that sell mostly hardwoods and exotic woods. Your local lumber and hardware store may have great buys on rough-hewn redwood planking, but it s hardly the stuff of robots.
9.1.1 PLYWOOD
The best overall wood for robotics use, especially for foundation platforms, is plywood. In case you are unfamiliar with plywood (Fig. 9-1), this common building material comes in
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WOODEN PLATFORMS
Top View Top Layer
Side View Top Layer Middle Layer
Middle Layer
Bottom Layer Bottom Layer Wood Grain Direction Indicator
FIGURE 9-1 Plywood is manufactured by laminating (gluing together) thin sheets of wood (called veneer). By changing the angle of the wood s grain, the final plywood is stronger than a single piece of veneer three times thicker than the ones used.
many grades and is made by laminating thin sheets of wood together. The cheapest plywood is called shop grade, and it is the kind often used for flooring and projects where looks aren t too important. The board is full of knots and knotholes, and there may be considerable voids inside the board, all of which detract from its strength. The remaining grades specify the quality of both sides of the plywood. Grade N is the best and signifies natural finish veneer. The surface quality of grade N really isn t important to us, so we can settle for grade A. Since we want both sides of the board to be in good shape, a plywood with a grade of A-A (grade A on both sides) is desired. Grades B and C are acceptable, but only if better plywoods aren t around. Depending on the availability of these higher grades, you may have to settle for A-C grade plywood (grade A on one side, grade C on the other). Most plywoods you purchase at the lumber stores are made of softwoods usually fir and pine. You can get hardwood plywood as well through a specialty wood supplier or from hobby stores (ask for aircraft-quality plywood). Hardwood-based plywood is more desirable because it is more dense and less likely to chip. Don t confuse hardwood plywood with hardboard. The latter is made of sawdust epoxied together under high pressure. Hardboard has a smooth finish; its close cousin, particleboard, does not. Both types are unsuitable for robotics because they are too heavy and brittle. Plywood comes in various thicknesses starting at about 5 16 in and going up to over 1 in. Thinner sheets are acceptable for use in a robotics platform if the plywood is made from hardwoods. When using construction-grade plywoods (the stuff you get at the home improvement store), a thickness in the middle of the range 1 2 or 3 8 in is ideal.
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