vb.net barcode scanner source code CHOOSING THE RIGHT WOOD in Software

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9.1 CHOOSING THE RIGHT WOOD
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Construction plywood generally comes in 4-by-8-ft panels. Hardwood plywoods, particularly material for model building, come in smaller sizes, such as 2 ft by 2 ft. You don t need a large piece of plywood; the smaller the board, the easier it will be to cut to the exact size you need. Remember that most home improvement stores will cut wood for you saving you the cost of buying power saws and doing it yourself. The professional-grade saws available at home improvement stores will make a straight, even cut and the staff is usually trained in making the cuts very accurately. Along with cutting the wood to the size you want, they may have leftover pieces for just a dollar or two that can be further cut down to the exact size you want.
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9.1.2 PLANKING
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An alternative to working with plywood is planking. Use ash, birch, or some other solid hardwood. Stay away from the less meaty softwoods such as fir, pine, and hemlock. Most hardwood planks are available in widths of no more than 12 or 15 in, so you must take this into consideration when designing the platform. You can butt two smaller widths together if absolutely necessary. Use a router to fashion a secure joint, or attach metal mending plates to mate the two pieces together. (This latter option is not recommended; it adds a lot of unnecessary weight to the robot.) When choosing planked wood, be especially wary of warpage and moisture content. If you have a planer, which cuts down planks of wood into absolutely flat and square pieces and the unit you have can handle the relatively thin and small pieces to be used in robots, then you can select the wood based on its grain and quality. If you don t have a planer, take along a carpenter s square, and check the squareness and levelness of the lumber in every possible direction. Reject any piece that isn t perfectly square; you ll regret it otherwise. Defects in premilled wood go by a variety of colorful names, such as crook, bow, cup, twist, wane, split, shake, and check, but they all mean headache to you. Wood with excessive moisture may bow and bend as it dries, causing cracks and warpage. These can be devastating in a robot you ve just completed and perfected. Buy only seasoned lumber stored inside the lumberyard, not outside. Watch for green specks or grains these indicate trapped moisture. If the wood is marked, look for an MC specification. An MC-15 rating means that the moisture content doesn t exceed 15 percent, which is acceptable. Good plywoods and hardwood planks meet or exceed this requirement. Don t get anything marked MC-20 or higher or marked S-GREEN bad stuff for robots.
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9.1.3 BALSA
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Yes, you ve read correctly, balsa wood can be useful as part of a robot structure. Balsa is very light (and strong for its density), easily shaped, and readily available in different sizes in virtually all hobby shops throughout the world. It has a number of other properties that make it well suited for robot applications, not only for prototyping complex parts due to the ease in which it can be cut and formed and glued together in other pieces. You might think that it s understated to say that balsa is a softwood; you have probably pressed your thumbnail into a piece at some time and been amazed how easy it is to put an
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WOODEN PLATFORMS
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imprint into the wood. This property along with its ability to absorb vibration make it ideal as a lining for fragile parts mounts. By buying a thick enough piece of balsa, chances are that you can replace the entire hold down with a piece having similar strength, as well as being much lighter. The major consumer of balsa is not the model airplane industry, as you might have thought, but the liquid natural gas (LNG) industry as an insulator for large LNG tanks. There may be cases where parts of your robot are hot and placed in close proximity to other parts that are temperature sensitive. Before trying to come up with a fan or redesign solution, why don t you try a small piece of balsa, cut to size. You will probably discover that the balsa will help separate the different temperature areas effectively for a small amount of work and cost. Note that an insulator is not a heat sink or a heat removal device like a fan. If you are using balsa to separate a device that has to stay cool beside one that becomes very hot, make sure that there is a way for the heat from the hot device to leave the robot. Encasing the part in a balsa box to keep heat from affecting other parts will result in the part becoming very hot and eventually burning out or catching fire.
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