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The circuit is powered by a single 9-volt (9V) battery. The circuit is simple enough to hardwire on a prototyping style printed circuit board (PCB). Test the circuit by connecting it to the rotary solenoid before continuing. The time period of the pulse should be approximately 1 second (s). Mechanics To keep weight and mass down, most of the components are made out of aluminum. The first mechanism I used to convert the solenoid movement to a flapping fish tail is shown in Fig. 13.6. This turned out to be more complex than was necessary. Figure 13.7 shows the final tail assembly setup. A 1/8" thick 1/2" wide 51/2" long piece of aluminum bar is secured to the top plate of the rotary solenoid using two 3/48 1 4" screws. First drill two holes in the aluminum bar to match the holes in the top plate. Next, one hex nut is screwed flush to the underside of each screw head to prevent the screws being driven too far down. If the screws are driven too far down, they will prevent the top
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13.6 Original tail assembly
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13.7 Final tail assembly
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Underwater bots
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plate from turning easily. Secure the aluminum bar to the top plate using the screws. Fins are made by cutting a square of 11/4" aluminum diagonally. The fins to the tail are secured to the 1/2" aluminum bar using a generous amount of hot glue. You may want to rough up the aluminum surfaces with sandpaper for a better bite before gluing. The solenoid itself is secured to the end of a piece of aluminum 1/8" thick 11/4" wide 2" long, using the two bottom 3/48 threaded studs and a few 3/48 hex nuts. The circuit and battery are secured on the front of the aluminum (See Fig. 13.8). Getting wet Obviously we have an exposed circuit and solenoid. To prevent water from damaging any components, cover the components using a thin, transparent plastic sandwich bag. The bag is secured to the tail using wire. The bag should be such that the tail section can still move back and forth easily. Before you dump the robot into the water, it should be made neutrally buoyant. If you dump it in as is, the front-heavy robot will nosedive to the bottom of the water tank with the tail swishing back and forth ineffectively. Secure strips of Styrofoam to the front of the model on the outside of the transparent bag using rubber bands. Place the model in water to test it. When the model submerges and floats underwater in a level or almost level position, you re ready to go. Turn on the power to the circuit and let the robot go. Efficiency This particular robot doesn t move with the grace or efficiency of a real fish, but it does move. I think efficiency can be improved by cutting the 1/2" 51/2" aluminum tail bar in half and then securing the halves back together using 2" of spring. This spring will allow the tail section to bend and flex and should create better thrust.
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13.8 Finished robot fish thirteen
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13.9 Rubber fish covering for robot fish
The robotic android fish
What separates a robot from an android is all in appearance. A robot looks like a robot and an android looks human or like the thing it was made to simulate. So an android fish should look like a fish. Well, creating an android fish may not be as difficult as it may first appear. And the reason for this is that reasonable-quality fish coverings are available (see Fig. 13.9). These coverings are sold at magic and hobby shops. These rubber fish can be cut open and the robotic mechanism inserted inside. Some models are more realistic than others. I found one model made out of thick, soft rubber. While the appearance and texture of this model is excellent, the internal robotic structure to move the tail must be more powerful. Another fish covering that is less realistic but much thinner, and therefore easier to move, is a better choice.
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