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adjusts ISO as the light changes. I recommend that you turn off this option and select a specific ISO setting instead. Most cameras don t inform you when they change the ISO setting, and this control has too big an impact on exposure and picture quality to leave to chance.
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Check your camera manual to find out whether your model offers a
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noise-reduction feature. This option applies a software filter to erase noise as part of the file processing that occurs as your camera stores the image. Usually, noise removal kicks in only at very slow shutter speeds, however, and also significantly increases the time you need to wait between shots for the camera s brain to do its thing.
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When all else fails, you may be able to diminish or even remove noise in your
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photo editor by blurring the affected areas. Use your blur tool judiciously, however, or you will blur image details, which is just as problematic as the image noise you re trying to eradicate.
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CHAPTER 6: Getting the Tough Shot: Low-Light and Action Photography
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If you find yourself frequently doing noise-removal work in your photo editor, you may want to invest in a specialized utility designed just for that purpose. Products such as Applied Science Fiction s Digital GEM ($79.95, www.asf.com), and nik multimedia s Dfine ($99, www.nikmultimedia.com) provide sophisticated tools that eradicate noise with better results than those found in most photo editors. Both products are Photoshop-compatible plug-ins, which means that they work with Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, or any other photo editor that accepts such plug-ins.
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ADJUST EXPOSURE WITH A LEVELS FILTER
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All photo-editing programs offer at least one correction filter that adjusts image exposure. At the basic level, you get a Brightness/Contrast filter, which allows you to make all pixels lighter or darker and to adjust tonal range the overall range of brightness values (shadows to highlights). A Brightness/Contrast filter is clumsy tool, however, and it usually produces unsatisfactory results. As an example, see Figure 6.2 and the top image on Page 15 of the color insert. I took this shot of an old sugar mill just after dawn, when the light is beautiful but also difficult to capture correctly. In this exposure, the highlights look fine, FIGURE 6.2 Sunrise and sunset light can be tricky to expose properly; here, the image is too dark and lacks contrast. but the midtones are too
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ADJUST EXPOSURE WITH A LEVELS FILTER (continued)
dark and the shadows aren t as deep as they could be. To put it another way, there s a lack of contrast in addition to an underexposure problem. Figure 6.3 and the middle image on Page 15 of the color insert show the photo after I applied the Brightness/Contrast filter in Photoshop Elements. Raising the Brightness value enough to correct the midtones made the shadows even lighter and blew out the subtle details in the clouds. Again, remember that when you raise the Brightness value, the shadows, midtones, and highlights all become lighter. So what about that Contrast control it should bring back the lost contrast, and more, right Nope, sorry. Contrast takes all pixels that are darker than the medium point on the brightness scale and makes those pixels darker. Pixels that are brighter than the midpoint get lighter. So you just wind up blowing even more highlights and losing shadow detail to boot, as shown in Figure 6.3.
FIGURE 6.3 Stay away from simple Brightness/Contrast filters; they reduce tonal range and wipe out shadow and highlight detail.
A better exposure correction filter, known as a Levels filter, allows you to tweak shadows, midtones, and highlights independently of each other. All professional photo-editing programs and many consumer-level programs offer this filter. Figure 6.4 shows the Levels filter dialog box from Photoshop Elements. A Levels dialog box typically contains a histogram, which is a chart that graphs the image brightness values, with shadows on the left and highlights on the right.
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