barcode generator in vb.net free download Project 44: Assembling Your Photopopper Photovore in Software

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Project 44: Assembling Your Photopopper Photovore
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Figure 16-11 Installing the photodiodes. Image courtesy Solarbotics.
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Figure 16-9 Installing the 1381 voltage regulators. Image courtesy Solarbotics.
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Figure 16-12 Installing the power capacitor. Image courtesy Solarbotics.
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capacitor lies flat against the circuit board; so you will need to bend the leads at 90 , once you have ascertained which way round the capacitor is going. The next step is to attach the motor mounts for the tiny motors which will provide the movement for our robot. This is shown in Figure 16-13. These motor holders are in fact fuse clips. You need to solder them to the two small tabs which stick out of the side of the flexible circuit board. There is a slight complication here, in that rather than soldering the other side of the circuit board where the pin protrudes, you need to solder on the same
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Figure 16-10 Inserting the two capacitors. Image courtesy Solarbotics.
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Project 44: Assembling Your Photopopper Photovore
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Figure 16-13 Soldering the motor clips onto the PCB. Image courtesy Solarbotics.
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Figure 16-15 Putting the motors in place. Image courtesy Solarbotics.
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the little lip will prevent the motor from locating properly. Now, you will notice that the printed circuit board is a little bent this is how it is supposed to be; however, in order to keep it rigidly bent, a piece of supporting wire needs to be soldered to support and maintain tension. You want to take the stiff piece of wire, strip some insulation off one end, and solder in the place where there is a hole marked wire near the motor clip. Now, pull the piece of wire to the other motor clip, strip the insulation from that end, and solder it in place to the other hole.
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Figure 16-14 Both motor mounts ready. Image courtesy Solarbotics.
side as the clip (Figure 16-14). This can be a little tricky. Some fuse clips come with a little lip molded into the metal spring in order to try and retain the fuse. If the fuse clip you buy is of this type, you need to be able to solder the clip onto the board with this side facing the center line of the printed circuit board. If you don t do this, then it will be next to impossible to seat the motor comfortably as
Once the motor clips are in place (and you have given them a while to cool down!) you need to think about the small motors (Figure 16-15). If you have bought the motors from Solarbotics, they will come supplied with a red wire and a blue wire. It is important that the correct polarity is observed when soldering the motors, as failure to do so will result in incorrect operation of your Photopopper. The PCB from Solarbotics clearly labels the attachment point on the circuit board M-Blue and M-Red. Take care when soldering the motor leads, as they are delicate and the motor insulation is easily damaged by the soldering iron.
Project 44: Assembling Your Photopopper Photovore
Figure 16-16 Connecting the solar cell. Image courtesy Solarbotics.
Also, if you need to strip any insulation from the wires, do so very carefully as it is very easy to break the connection between the motor and wire and a lot harder to fix it back again! Next comes connection of the robot s powerplant the solar cell. First of all, take your soldering iron and tin the pads of the solar cell. Then solder a short length of wire to the pads. At this point, in order to provide a little strain relief for the wires and the carefully soldered joints, you might want to take a little hot melt glue or epoxy, and glue the wires to an area of the solar cell (for example the area between the solder pads) where there is no solder. You will notice that one of the pads of the solar cell is round, and the other is square. The round pad is positive and the square pad is negative. So solder the black to the square and the red to the round. This is shown in Figure 16-16. Then, take the wires and, ensuring polarity, solder them to the PCB (Figure 16-17). The same convention as used on the solar cell has been used with the pads on the PCB the round one is a positive terminal and the square one a negative. This should be a real Frankenstein s monster moment, as your robot will now start to twitch with the first indications of light! The circuit is now complete, and as the capacitor charges the motors will start to whirr!
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