Grounding in VS .NET

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Grounding
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The electrical system must be grounded as a safety precaution. This means that a portion of the wiring in the main panel box must be deliberately connected to the ground. This is done by connecting the wiring to a grounding wire that in turn is clamped to a metallic inlet water pipe or to a rod driven into the ground. Check to see if the electrical ground has been properly connected. There should be a wire coming out of the main panel box that runs to the inlet water pipe. Sometimes the wire is not visible, so go directly to the inlet water pipe. This pipe is located by the water meter (if there is one) and usually protrudes through the foundation wall or lower-level floor slab. The electrical ground wire should be clamped to the water pipe on the street side of the water meter. (See FIG. 12-7.) It might also be connected on the house side, but in such cases there must be a jumper cable running around the meter to the street side. Improper ground connections It is surprising how many houses have loose clamps on the water pipes, resulting in an improperly grounded electrical system. Many homeowners do not realize that the wire clamped to the water pipe is a grounding wire for the electrical system, and they loosen the clamp when making a repair or finishing the basement, often forgetting to
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Fig. 12-7. Ground wire clamped to inlet water pipe. reclamp the wire because nothing apparent happened when it was disconnected. Look at the clamp. Is it loose If it is, it must be resecured. This can usually be done with a screwdriver. Sometimes the clamp or screws have corroded and must be replaced. If there is no clamp or ground wire visible, you should question the integrity of the ground system. Sometimes the ground wire is clamped to a water pipe other than the inlet pipe. This procedure provides a false sense of security because a section of the pipe can be removed, causing an open circuit in the electrical ground. Some states require a jumper wire between the hot- and cold-water pipes that are connected to the tank-type water heater. This provides electrical bonding between the two pipes and prevents an interrupt in the ground circuit during that period in which the water heater is being replaced. These states may also require a jumper wire around the water meter (if there is one). This requirement can be checked with the local authorities. The inlet pipe to which the electrical ground is connected must be a functioning water pipe. This ensures that the pipe extends a considerable distance into the ground.
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According to the electrical code, the pipe should extend at least 10 feet into the ground. If a new inlet water pipe has been installed, the ground wire should be moved to the new pipe. Otherwise, there is no way of knowing how far the old pipe extends into the ground. Often, when replacing an old water pipe, the portion outside the structure is cut off at the foundation wall. This cannot be determined when looking at the pipe from inside the house. When the inlet water pipe is plastic, as is often the case with a well, the electrical system is grounded by connecting the grounding wire to a rod driven into the ground. If this is the case, check the clamp connection and the rod. If either the clamp or rod is loose, the integrity of the electrical ground should be questioned.
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Interior electrical inspection
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Now that the basic system has been checked, walk around the interior portion of the house and determine the adequacy of the electrical distribution and possible violations. Electrical outlets Check each room for electrical outlets. You might feel that the number of outlets in each room is not very important. This is not so. If there are an insufficient number of outlets, the homeowner will tend to use extension cords. Most extension cords have a lower electrical current capacity than the outlet; and an overload on the extension cord can result in a fire rather than a blown fuse. Figure 12-8 shows one arrangement that is a potential hazard. The convenience outlet in the kitchen is capable of carrying 20 amps, whereas the extension cord can safely carry only 10 amps. Kitchens should ideally have 20-amp appliance outlets that are conveniently located (about every 24 inches) above a working counter.
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