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17. Continue refining the transition between the leaf shape and the spring on a sharp corner of the anvil. The flat section of the spring should be 5 inches long, 3 4 inch wide, and 1 16 inch thick. Use the lockspring fuller to draw the spring down to 1 16 inch. 18. The tail of the mainspring should be forged approximately 3 inches long, 3 16 inch thick, and 1 4 inch wide. Shape the tail of the spring as shown in Fig. 23.9. The bottom edge of the tail should be slightly above the bottom edge of the bolt. 19. Bend the remainder of the spring as shown. Place the mainspring in the middle notch of the bolt and align the center tooth with the centerline of the keyhole. Mark the location of the spring. Drill the rivet holes but do not rivet the spring to the backplate. The spring will need to be removed when adjusting the tension for the lock.
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Figure 23.8 The mainspring is made by forging the keystock into
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a thin, leaf shape.
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Rear Bolt Guide Set In Place But Not Riveted
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Figure 23.9 Set the tail of the spring.
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20. The key is forged from a 4-inch length of 3 81-inch flat bar. Begin by punching and drifting the two holes for the bow. Punch and drift the 1inch hole, then the 1 2-inch hole. Rough-forge the remainder of the key shape, leaving at least 11 4 inches for the key bit. Use a hacksaw to cut out the key bit and pivot pin. Begin refining the overall shape with a file. 21. A rat-tail file is used to carve out the inside bow. The final shape of the bow can be refined with 1 2-round files. 22. Heat the bow and shape using scroll wrenches or rat-tail tongs. The first step in shaping the key bit is to twist the shaft of the key slightly so that the centerline of the key bit is in line with the centerline of the key. This is an aesthetic adjustment and does not affect the operation of the lock. 23. A hacksaw is used to rough out the profile of the key bit. A narrow cold chisel is used to dig out the waste between the saw cuts. 24. Final shaping is done with a safe-edged file. The use of cardboard or sheet metal templates simplifies the shaping process. 25. Bolt the ward plate, coverplate, and backplate together. Test the key by sliding it into the lock from both sides. Scribe the location of the ward plate on the key bit. Saw it out. Try the key again from both sides. It should turn freely in the lock. 26. The wards for the door lock are located on the inside face of the backplate and coverplate. A pin ward is placed on each side of the keyhole on both of these plates. Begin by cutting a notch in the key bit that is 3 16 inch wide and 3 16 inch deep. Unbolt the coverplate from the backplate. Scribe the location of this notch on the backplate and coverplate. 27. Turn the key around and use the scribed lines on the backplate or coverplate to locate the notch on the other side of the key bit. Cut a notch in the key bit that is 3 16 3 16 inch. 28. The pin wards are made from 16-gauge sheet metal. A triangular tenon is filed on the end of the ward. 29. Reassemble the backplate, ward plate, and coverplate. Test the key from both sides of the lock. 30. Remove the coverplate and ward plate from the backplate. Install the bolt and mainspring. Bolt the mainspring to the backplate and set the rear bolt guide into position but do not rivet. Scribe onto the backplate the location of the center notch on the top edge of the bolt. Remove the mainspring. Insert the key through the backplate and turn until it touches the bolt. Remove the bolt from the lock, and file away the edges that are interfering with the key. 31. Align one of the end notches on the key with the spring location marks. Test the key. Remove any unwanted metal. Repeat this process with the
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