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Making Locks by Hand
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last notch of the key. The key should now be able to move the bolt in and out of the lock without binding. As the key is turned, check that each notch is lined up with the spring location. Do a final test with the ward plate and coverplate in place. 32. Bolt the mainspring in position and test the key. The mainspring should be sitting firmly in the notches of the bolt and it should take little effort to lift the mainspring with the key. If the mainspring has too much tension, the key will tend to snap forward in the hand as it is turned. This will cause the bolt to be thrown out of position and the key will no longer engage the bolt. 33. Adjust the spring tension by opening or closing the main loop in the main spring. Grinding a small amount from the flat face of the mainspring will also reduce the tension as well as increase its range of motion. 34. Now the lock is ready for final assembly. Rivet the rear bolt guide, mainspring, ward plate, and coverplate in place. The patterns for the lock are shown in Figs. 23.10 to 23.12.
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Figure 23.10 Pattern for door lock backplate.
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1 1/4"
1 1/2"
1 3/8"
1 1/4"
Figure 23.11 Pattern for door lock coverplate and ward plate.
Making Locks by Hand
8 1/4"
3 11/16" 2 15/16" 2 1/4"
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3 1/4"
Figure 23.12 Pattern for door lock bolt and bolt guides.
English Iron Rim Lock* A lock, even in basic form, is a minimachine, with accurately fitted parts that move when activated by a key. It must be so constructed that only those elements that are intended to move can do so, thus stabilizing the mechanical movements in their intended paths. The key is the heart of the lock, and its beginning; from its measurements all other dimensions stem. This may seem strange, but it is logical. By first making the key, the locksmith has a gauge with which to try the movements as he fits the lock together. The security of the lock depends upon the impediments that the wards can put in the way of a false key, but through which the true key can pass. Although no traditional warded locks are pickproof by modern standards, during their time they were the best protection the craft could offer, with endless varieties of shapes, wards, and devices. Some medieval keys and their boxes of wards could be compared to passing one fine-toothed comb through another. In locks for passage doors, which must be able to be locked from either side, some means must be taken to assure that the key will rest in its proper position each time it is thrust into the lock either way. With keys with bits of symmetrical profile in section, this is done by providing a collar or shoulder behind the bit, which bears against the lock case or backplate, centering the key in its correct place (Figs. 23.13 and 23.14).
*Excerpt from Professional Smithing: Traditional Techniques for Decorative Ironwork, Whitesmithing, Hardware, Toolmaking & Locksmithing by Donald Streeter.
Twenty-Three
Figure 23.13 Interior of 12-inch English-type rim lock with
backplate removed. (Courtesy of Astragal Press, Mendham, NJ)
Figure 23.14 Interior
of case, showing stud construction. (Courtesy of Astragal Press, Mendham, NJ)
To make the key, first forge a blank of proper size, leaving a round section at one end to receive the bit and a flat part at the other end for the bow. Split the flat end, bend the parts, and weld into a ring. Bend the rough bow aside and lathe-turn the stem and shaft to proper size. The bit should be made and fitted to the lock before spending time filing the bow, since if the bit fails, all filing time would be wasted. Because of the shoulder at the base of the stem, it would be difficult to file the sides of the bit after they are fitted, without damaging the collar. So the bit is filed to shape before being attached to the stem. Two identical pieces must be made, with equally spaced clefts to pass the intended wards of the lock. They can take almost any form, provided they do not weaken the bit or allow passage of a bent wire pick strong enough to move the bolt and raise the tumbler. In this case, the key is cut so as to pass a main center ward and collar, two minor wards, and one continuous ward. Ideally, all clefts should be cut as arcs
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