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concentric with the center of the stem, to avoid weakening the bit and to keep the tolerances as close as possible. They can be sawed straight and curved with chisels, or cut in the lathe. In the absence of a lathe, these were done in a jig at the drill press with hole saws of graduated sizes. The two pieces are attached to the stem with tenons, here 1 8-inch round steel pins, fitted into holes in the stem and bit, and the whole brazed together after clamping, with a spacer sheet between them for the main ward passage. Final finishing was done with thin, sharp cold chisels. The key made, the lock itself is laid out on a steel sheet that is to be the lock case here 16-gauge thicknesses using prick punch, dividers, and scriber. The box of wards also is laid out in identical form, along with the backplate (Fig. 23.15). The main center-ward plate is cut to match them. Tenons are centered at its sides to enter slots cut into the sides of the box, and its center collar and minor wards are silver-soldered in place. Slots are punched in the main and backplates for tenons on the sides of the box, the ward system assembled with trial bolts, and the key filed as need be to make a matching fit while moving easily from either side of the lock. This done, the rest of the parts can be forged and fitted and the lock completed. The lock illustrated is a three-bolt lock, with latch bolt, dead bolt, and night bolt. It is what is known as a once dead lock, since one revolution of the key throws the bolt through its entire travel. Some locks were made with two turns of the key required for full bolt movement, enabling the use of smaller keys, easier to carry about; they were called twice dead locks. In this lock, the dead bolt and latch bolt were faggot-welded of flat stock in the traditional method, to avoid having to forge down heavier stock for the thin sections. Two saw cuts were made in the lower edge of the main bolt, in
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Figure 23.15 Backplate and key. (Courtesy of Astragal Press,
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Mendham, NJ)
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position for the key to strike, and the center part bent down at a right angle to form a talon. Thus a talon engages behind a similar talon on the tumbler when in the unlocked position, and ahead of it when locked. The tumbler is raised out of the way as the key turns, by half of the bit, just as the other half strikes one ear of the slot in the bolt, and it drops into place again as soon as the bolt is thrown. A tapered iron spring riveted to the lock case keeps the tumbler in tension, and should be strong enough to function even if, as sometimes happens, the lock must be mounted upside down to accommodate the hand of the door. The cam that activates the latch bolt, and through which the knob shaft passes, is forged with a round stud riveted through a round hole in the face. The hole is tapered to allow filing smooth with the face and yet allow free movement of the cam. A scissors spring returns the latch bolt to locked position at each operation. Tension springs bear on the face side of the night bolt, to prevent chatter and unwanted movement should the door slam in the wind. The case is made of three pieces: the face and ends in one sheet, bent at right angles, and top and bottom of tapered flat stock with studs riveted to them and the face plate. The backplate carries the one continuous ward of thin steel sheet, attached with tenons through the plate, and a tension spring to bear on the dead bolt. The continuous ward affords a complete track for the key through its travel, giving support against the pressure of the tumbler, and preventing wear at the keyhole, which would eventually cause the key to wobble and damage other parts. The keeper for this type of lock is made in similar fashion to the case, with back end of tapered forged stock, and stud construction. Fine locks were fitted with a quarter-round brass striking strip at the lock edge, for the beveled end of the latch bolt, and to match the brass knobs. Cases usually were painted black inside and out, with all moving parts draw-filed bright to avoid friction. In all locks, oil is an enemy, for it attracts dust, which builds up and causes wear. Graphite is a better lubricant. For more information on the books mentioned above, contact:
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The Astragal Press 5 Cold Rd., Suite 12 P. O. Box 239 Mendham, NJ 07945 Spruce Forge Publications 2563 East 51 4 Mile Rd. Sault Ste Marie, MI 49788 906-635-1316
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