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Removing paint from warded locks is also a form of repair. The home painter is a major cause of lock failure. He often does not take the time to remove the lock or to cover it with masking tape. Paint usually gets into the mechanism, freezing its works. To clean a paint-bound lock, follow this procedure: Remove the lock from the door. (Run a sharp knife around the edges so the new paint will not be cracked and broken.) Disassemble the lock. Using a wire brush, scrape the paint from the parts. In extreme cases, you may have to use a small knife or soak the individual parts in paint remover. Dry each part thoroughly. Check for rust and worn parts and replace as needed. Assemble and mount the lock. Use paint remover only as a last resort because it leaves a residue that attracts dust and lint. When you use paint remover you must clean each part before assembly.
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Locks that are difficult to operate usually have not been lubricated in a long time, if ever. Never use oil to lubricate a lock. The professional approach is to use a flake or powdered graphite. Apply the lubricant sparingly. Remember, a little bit goes a long way. This is especially true of graphite. Should you overuse it, you may have to explain to the homeowner why there is a dark patch on the carpet that cannot be cleaned. Graphite stains are almost impossible to remove. Warded Keys Warded keys are made of iron, steel, brass, and aluminum. Iron and aluminum keys have a tendency to break or bend within a relatively short time; steel and brass keys can outlast the lock. The warded key has seven parts, as shown in Fig. 4.8. The configuration of the bow, length of the shank, and the relative thickness of the shoulder are not critical to the selection or the cutting of the key.
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Warded keys come in various types, including the simple warded key, the standard warded key, the multicut key, and the antique key. Simple warded keys are often factory-made precut keys that fit several different keyholes. Multicut keys, on the other hand, are designed for specific locks. The standard warded key is usually mass-produced, but it has more precut ward and end cuts than the simple warded key. Standard warded keys can be easily converted into master keys by cutting. The antique key may have several kinds of cuts: ward cuts, end cuts, and even side (or bullet) groove cuts extending the length of the bit. Antique keys usually go to older locks, but these keys are still manufactured.
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A key blank is a key that has not been cut or shaped to fit a specific locking mechanism. When selecting a blank for a duplicate warded key, the following should be considered:
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Figure 4.8 Parts of a bit key.
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Four Post size. The post of both keys (original and duplicate) must be the same diameter. If your eyesight cannot correctly determine whether or not they are the same size, use either calipers or a paper clip. Use the calipers to compare the diameter of the original key with the diameter of the duplicate. You can use a paper clip that has been wrapped around the original key to check the diameter of the duplicate. Length. From the collar to the end of the pin, both keys should be approximately the same length. This is important because this portion of the key enters the keyhole and operates the lock. Height. The height of the bitting (cuts in the bit) must be the same on both keys. If the bitting in the duplicate is higher, it should be filed down; if it is lower, another blank should be selected. Bow. The bows need not be identical but generally should be closely matched. Width. The width of the bittings should be approximately the same. If the bitting on the duplicate is too wide, the extra thickness may prevent the duplicate from entering the lock. Thickness. The thickness of the bits should be the same. If the original key bit is tapered, the bit of the duplicate should also be tapered. You may
TABLE 4.1 Standard Wire Gauges (inches and millimeters). 1 mm = 0.03937 inches; 1 inch = 25.4 mm Standard wire gauge number 4/0 3/0 2/0 0 1 2 21 2 3 31 2 4 41 2 5 51 2 6 6 2
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