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CUTTING
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To cut metal, use a hacksaw outfitted with a fine-tooth blade, one with 24 or 32 teeth per inch. Coping saws, keyhole saws, and other handsaws are generally engineered for cutting wood, and their blades aren t fine enough for metal work. You can use a power saw, like a table saw or reciprocating saw, but, again, make sure that you use the right blade. You ll probably do most of your cutting by hand. You can help guarantee straight cuts by using an inexpensive miter box. You don t need anything fancy, but try to stay away from the wooden boxes. They wear out too fast. The hardened plastic and metal boxes are the best buys. Be sure to get a miter box that lets you cut at 45 both vertically and horizontally. Firmly attach the miter box to your workbench using hardware or a large clamp.
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DRILLING
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Metal requires a slower drilling speed than wood, and you need a power drill that either runs at a low speed or lets you adjust the speed to match the work. Variable speed power drills are available for under $30 these days, and they re a good investment. Be sure to use only sharp drill bits. If your bits are dull, replace them or have them sharpened. Quite often, buying a new set is cheaper than professional resharpening. It s up to you. You ll find that when you cut metal the bit will skate all over the surface until the hole is started. You can eliminate or reduce this skating by using a punch prior to drilling. Use a hammer to gently tap a small indentation into the metal with the punch. Hold the smaller pieces in a vise while you drill. When it comes to working with metal, particularly channel and pipe stock, you ll find a drill press is a godsend. It improves accuracy, and you ll find the work goes much faster. Always use a proper vise when working with a drill press. Never hold the work with your
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126 BUILDING A METAL PLATFORM
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hands. Especially with metal, the bit can snag as it s cutting and yank the piece out of your hands. If you can t place the work in the vise, use a pair of Vise-Grips or other suitable locking pliers.
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Cutting and drilling often leaves rough edges, called flashing, in the metal. These edges must be filed down using a medium- or fine-pitch metal file, or else the pieces won t fit together properly. Aluminum flash comes off quickly and easily; you need to work a little harder when removing the flash in steel or zinc stock.
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Build the Buggybot
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The Buggybot is a small robot built from a single 6-by-12-inch sheet of 1/16-inch thick aluminum, nuts and bolts, and a few other odds and ends. You can use the Buggybot as the foundation and running gear for a very sophisticated petlike robot. As with the robots built with plastic and wood we discussed in the previous two chapters, the basic design of the all-metal Buggybot can be enhanced just about any way you see fit. This chapter details the construction of the framework, locomotion, and power systems for a wired remote control robot. Future chapters will focus on adding more sophisticated features, such as wireless remote control, automatic navigation, and collision avoidance and detection. Refer to Table 10.1 for a list of the parts needed to build the Buggybot.
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TABLE 10.1
PARTS LIST FOR BUGGYBOT
Frame: 1 6-by-12-inch sheet of 1/16-inch thick aluminum
Motor and Mount: 2 2 2 2 1 Misc Tamiya high-power gearbox motors (from kit); see text 3-inch-diameter Lite Flight foam wheels 5/56 nuts (should be included with the motors) 3/16-inch collars with setscrews Two-cell D battery holder 1-inch-by-6/32 stove bolts, nuts, flat washers
Support Caster: 1 Misc 1 1/2-inch swivel caster 1/2-inch-by-6/32 stove bolts, nuts, tooth lock washers, flat washers (as spacers) See parts list in Table 8.3 of 8 for motor control switch
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