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Figure 14.17 Only file the marks that you can see clearly.
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Never file more than one key depth for the lock you re working on. If you don t have a caliper and depth and space charts, just file two or three strokes at a time. (File forward only.) It s better to file too little away than to file too much. Sometime dirt or debris may seem like a mark. If you re not sure if what you re seeing is an impression mark, use a clean cloth to wipe the blank. After filing the marks, clean away excess metal on the bitting side of the blade by again filing it a little at a 45 angle. Just a couple of forward strokes on each prepared side will be enough. Don t decrease the width of the blade. Alternative Impressioning Method Another method of impressioning is called tapping. This is where you insert a prepared blank in the keyway and insert a steel rod in the bow. Use the rod for leverage to turn the bow clockwise; then, while maintaining the pressure, use a small hammer to tap the top and bottom of the bow several times. Then twist the bow counterclockwise, and while maintaining the pressure again, tap the top and bottom of the bow several times. The twisting is to bind the pins, and the tapping is to force the pins to mark the blank. File down at each mark you see. Clean the blank with one or two light strokes across the length of the blade. Repeat the procedure until you have a working key. Problems with Impressioning One common problem that happens during impressioning is that the blank cracks or breaks off near the bow. This is more likely to happen if you use aluminum blanks or locking pliers that are too large. If your brass blanks are breaking off, you re turning too hard. You don t need to turn very hard. It s the rocking that marks the blanks, not the turning. If your blank cracks or breaks, duplicate it on a key machine or by hand. Then use the new blank to finish impressioning the lock. Anything that makes it harder for the pins to mark the blank will hinder your impressioning attempts. Problems can include: missing or worn tumbler springs, worn tumblers, a long pin next to a short one, extremely close tolerances within the lock, and oil, dirt, or debris in the cylinder.
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There isn t much you can do about it if the lock is too old and worn. But if you have a hard time making marks, use a nonoil, wax-free spray cleaner for electronic parts. Shoot a couple of squirts into the keyway and let it dry. That should clean the lock. Impressioning Practice No amount of reading will make you skilled at impressioning because during impressioning you have to make a lot of judgment calls which will get better only with experience. You have to judge how hard to twist and rock the blank, how hard to file, and how deep and how wide to make a cut based on the type of mark you see. If you ve never impressioned a lock, practice by using a lock with only two sets of pins. Prepare the blank to a knife point. Insert the blank into the keyway and twist the key clockwise, and while maintaining the pressure, rock the blank up and down and pull it out slightly. Then twist the blank counterclockwise, and while maintaining the pressure, rock it up and down and pull it out slightly. Remove the blank from the lock, and observe the marks made by the pins. File at the strongest mark only. Cut just one mark at a time before cleaning the blank and reinserting it in the keyway to make new marks. Repeat the turning, rocking, pulling, and filing procedure until you have a working key. When you re able to impression a two-pin lock, add another pin stack, and practice impressioning it. Continue adding pins until you can quickly impression a five-pin tumbler cylinder. Warded Bit-Key Locks Impressioning a warded bit-key lock relies on the ability to decipher small marks made on a smoked key blank that has been inserted into a lock and turned. Interpretation of the marks tells the locksmith what cuts to make, where to make them, and how deep they must be. The advantage of impressioning is that you need not disassemble a lock or remove it from a door to make a key. The first cut allows that blank to enter the keyhole. Since you do not have the original key, smoke the end edge of the blank, and insert it into the keyhole so that the edge comes into contact with the case ward. Scribe mark the top and bottom of the ward on the blank. Remove the key; the candle black that was removed indicates the depth of the cut, and the scribed marks show the position of the cut on the blank. Transfer the scribe marks to the near end of the bit, and draw lines connecting the two pairs of marks. Use a small piece of metal to make a depth gauge so that you will not file too deeply. Mount the blank in the vise, and cut the ward slot. When you re finished, the key should pass the case ward. Next, prepare the blank for impressioning the internal wards. Recall that the key must pass certain side wards. When the lock is assembled, how can you be sure exactly where to cut the key so that it will pass these wards You can t. You
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